A Joyeux Noël à Paris.doc

Jet-setting really throws your blog schedule into the fire. I feel like every time I sit down to write of my adventures over here I am trying to articulate a month's worth of events in one post. That said, I will my best to describe to you Christmas 2008 - The Kids are Let Loose in Paris!

After a mammoth day of travel on the 23rd, Emily and I arrived in Paris on the morning of Christmas Eve exhausted and craving a place to set our bags. The small hotel in the Montmartre area was pretty much exactly as I had pictured it. The image may have been pieced together from films about the city - it had yellowed walls, a large window which opened outward, yellow and blue curtains, and a sink in the room which would serve as our makeshift showering facilities (the communal shower for the hotel cost 2 euros a pop). On that afternoon, Emily and I walked around the grounds of the beautiful Sacre-Coeur Basilica. The view of Paris was simply breathtaking and the church was really impressive. While we may have been tired from the traveling, the sight of the city that would be our Christmas home was truly invigorating. We grabbed a coffee from one of the many cafes near our hotel and continued through Montmartre. It's one of the more trendy and artistic spots in Paris, so I am told, and I really dug the bo-ho, communal feel in the neighbourhood.

After an obligatory nap, we headed to Emily's boyfriend's place (Raffi, for those who don't tag-team the blogosphere). 'Twas the coming together of a winning triumverate of Christmas revelers! Raffi is a great guy, and proved to be a great city guide to boot! Since he is studying at a famous international clown school called Jacques LeCoq, it was great to chat theatre (without feeling grilled in the classroom) and have him join us for our Christmas adventures in the city. After visiting in his residence, Emily surprised us with Christmas stockings that she had sewn herself - how crafty! It was Raffi's first Christmas stocking, and my first away from home. The Hinckster had placed a variety of wonderful little treasures inside. From the residence we jumped on the metro, which we used often over the three days, and headed to dinner with another clown from Canada named Nicole and her boyfriend Matt who was visiting for Christmas.

The flat they were staying at, usually inhabited by a clown from Italy (so many red-noses to keep track of), was absolutely gorgeous. It had two fire places and lots of space - it felt nice to be surrounded by a beautiful and warm space on Christmas Eve. We had a delicious dinner - real mozzarella and tomato on fresh bread as appetizers with dijon chicken, rice, and veggies for dinner. We stuffed ourselves on a really wholesome food and chatted about life back home. It was really special to be in the company of North Americans again, if only briefly. I think we all were excited to be experiencing the holiday in a country unlike our own. 

After dinner, we headed to the most likely spot on Christmas Eve - the Eiffel Tower. Wine bottles in tow, we hiked it from the metro station just in time to catch the tower turn from a glowing blue to a ten minute sparkler that could be seen all throughout the city. The combination of three glasses of wine at dinner with the simple beauty of my first visit to the Tower coinciding with Christmas Eve made the moment extremely joyful. This type of feeling was only possible at a certain place in the world and shared among friends, new and old. We sat and soaked it in. Raffi and Nicole gave a hilarious rendition of a very detailed chase sequence they were working on in class, we sipped more wine, and spent the night gazing up at the world-renowned spot. 

Christmas Day was spent differently than I ever have before. Instead of rising at the crack of dawn, we opted to sleep in and save up energy for more afternoon and evening adventures. We joined Raffi in the afternoon and spent some time skyping our families back home. It was a special treat to see the Christmas I know and love still going on - the tree a glow, the dog running around playing with wrapping paper, and a turkey in the oven (the smell was the only thing missing). While it was definitely the most homesick I've felt, I'm so grateful to have my parents' blessing to spent the year traveling and learning about the world. Definitely the best Christmas gift I could ask for.

That night we visited some more hot-spots: the Latin Quarter, Notre Dame, and the Seine. While the Latin Quarter was a really cool spot with a lot to see and do, it seems to have become pretty darn touristy. The highlight was the huge Christmas Tree outside of the ND Cathedral. We sat down for a nice Thai dinner that evening (since we decided it was important) at a really nice restaurant. Curry dinner for Christmas was a delicious change, although its been much too long since I've had a proper Turkey dinner.

On boxing day, Emily and I welcomed Steve to the city - a friend from Queen's who studies Biology but was also part of the theatre scene. Steve and Emily have been really close friends since first year (S&C shout out). After shaking off jetlag, Steve was just as energized to hit the city. We pieced together a lunch feast at Raffi's and then departed for an epic Parisian walk. We saw the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Elysees, the outside of the Louvre, and a few beautiful gardens in the city. Each of these spots possesses an amazing history, and it was really inspiring to think I could get a glimpse of them in one day. As much as we were 'sightseeing', we decided, since it was really a holiday, to talk, walk, and wander instead of playing stressful tourists. It was the best choice - we had a fantastic wall through the city.

That evening we said goodbye to Raffi, who returned to work the next day, and jumped on a train to Rennes. I felt really happen to return to the city - it's the city that most reminds me of Kingston since it's undeniably a university town. On the 27th, Emily took Steve and I around the city and we saw the popular Saturday spots: the market, cafes, and the city park. It was enjoyable to see the city for a second time and I realized just how much Emily feels at home here - I can't blame her, it's a wonderful city. After wandering, much photo-taking, and cafe sipping, we visited the Rennes City Fair that was a five minute walk from Emily's apartment building. I felt like a kid again with endless opportunity to have fun. The fair felt much larger than any I have seen in Canada - the rides were more high-tech, the food shops were double, and the prizes for the games looked very expensive. 

Steve, Emily, and I set our sights on one ride in particular to challenge called Toxic. I think that the title was lost in translation from French to English and should actually read Queasy. Think of the ride as a giant Q-tip affixed to the ground at the centre that spins around and around backwards and forwards. It had to be the most dangerous ride at the fair, but the three of us each put down 5 euros and braved the risk. It did not disappoint. Aside from Emily's initial nervousness once we were strapped in and hoisted to the top, we all had an absolute blast. I could feel my contact lenses being pushed again my eyeballs as we descended head-first round and round.

Fair rides create quite an appetite! We had purchases mussels (moules) in the morning market at an insanely cheap price and went ahead, under Emily's guidance, and made red wine, white wine, and curry moules with frites on the side. One of my favorite meals in Europe thus far! We stuffed ourselves on delicious mussels and took comfort in the fact of a healthy communally made meal. With that we split a bottle of wine and headed down to Rue de la Soif for yet another street party - this one of a smaller nature than the one I experienced in September. We stayed out late, met two clowns named Pierre and Antoine (not funny JLC clowns, but actual clowns), had a few drinks, made dance, and then called it a night.

With that my Christmas adventures in France came to an end. I said goodbye to Emily and Steve for just over a week - they'll come visiting in Amdam on September 7 for three nights. I'm back at Warwick Uni essaying and packing for a Dec 31 departure to Edinburgh for the Hogmanay Festival which is one of the largest NYE parties on the continent. There I will be reuniting with friends Talia and Alex where we will welcome 2009 a full five hours before those back in Canada. The party continues...

Doc's Prescription of the Day: One realistic and positive resolution that will serve to help yourself, or your fellow human being. I'm keeping mine to being extremely mundane, but yet something I'm likely to carry through in 2009. Best Wishes for a fun NYE and for much success in the coming year!

Turkey With All the Trimmings.doc

It is currently 1:20am on Christmas Eve and Emily and I are camping out overnight at the John Lennon Airport in Liverpool. From here we jump on an Easyjet flight and arrive in Paris around 9:30am just in time to explore the city during Christmas. We originally were dreading this time spent in the cold and small airport but were elated upon arrival to wander upon pay-by-the-20 minute slot internet hubs. What a better way to pass the time (who needs sleep?!) than to recount our adventures since the infamous holiday video which we left for you upon our departure.

It was a joy to have Emily for a night at Warwick. Because I am moving the first week of January, she is the only person from home who will have seen my residence digs and life as I described on the blog. We stayed up late planning the minutest details of our trip and catching up on the stories that have accumulated over the past three months on the continent. I gave her a quick tour of the facilities and we enjoyed one last lunch in the residence kitchen, two frozen pizzas, before heading off to Manchester.

Upon arrival we checked into our hostel, the Hatters Manchester, and then made our way around the city. We wandered through brightly lit Christmas events and soaked up the atmosphere of the bustling metropolis. It was here that I introduced Emily to PRIMARK where we each bought extremely cheap clothes for our Turkish adventure - Em picked up a pair of sandals and sunnys while I purchased a new sweater to be worn on Christmas day. From there we wandered to the Manchester Christmas Market (every UK town boasts their own) were we had a wholesome dinner.

Anyone who talks about Manchester usually mentions that the nightlife is the feature of the city - our one night in Man did not disappoint! We went to a hip little bar on Canal Street called Churchills that was offering (surprise, surprise) Karaoke. The bar was eerily similar to Crews and Tango and reminded us of a number of fun TWT nights spent in Toronto. After overcoming a little apprehension (some beverages helped) Em and I scribbled our name as "The Canadians" and put down Twist and Shout as the number we would deliver. After mishearing the DJ twice (he had a thick accent), it was finally our turn to wow the crowd with our Toronto Karaoke skills - we felt like we were singing for all you guys back home. A great night on the journey to Turkey.

We left the hostel early the next morning with Thomas Cook Airlines and chatted with a sweet older lady on the plane who had moved from the UK to Turkey four years ago and swore she would never go back. She regaled us with stories about the country which made us extremely excited for the trip we were about to begin. After a quick process through customs (we got the coolest visa stamp in our passport) and a two hour shuttle to the resort, we had arrived. Now, I've never been to a five star resort before so I had no idea what to expect. All in all, I'm told the service where we stayed is more like what you'd find at a three star resort, but you'd never know it entering the lobby at the Beach Club Doganay where we stayed. The six floors surround an atrium that is lit up like something you'd find in Vegas or Atlantic City. While the balcony was a little small and it was a bit too cold to spent our evenings outdoors, the room looked extremely luxurious.

Emily and I think we might have been the first Canadians ever to vacation there. The whole week we were surrounded by Germans, Brits,Turks, and Dutch tourists who all mentioned they had never really heard of Canadians vacationing in Turkey. Whenever one of the bartenders or waiters would ask us where we were from, they would always be surprised to hear the word Canada. Two of the staff entertainers in particular made an effort during the week to ask questions about where we were from. Since we were the only ones there, it wasn't long before most of the workers there were referring to us as The Canadians. One drawback of the resort was the lack of anyone under the age of twenty-five. The first night we were pretty certain the median age at dinner looked to be forty. We later found out that a seniors home in Turkey brings the residents to the resort for one week out of the year. I wish I was kidding. If you know Emily and I you know that this did little to dampen our spirits - we had a fine time filling our evening with alternative socializing since the disco was sparsely populated (understatement of the trip).

The food was fantastic. Before leaving, a friend told me that Greek food and Turkish food is fairly similar, but that no one from either country would tell you that. The highlights of the all-inclusive meals included : fresh baked bread, a variety of different olives, many cheeses, and lots of meat. My mom is a huge fan of feta cheese and there had to be about half a dozen types of feta each with a different spice. The dessert of the trip was an extremely decadent baklava that melted in your mouth (obvi, Emily and I packed up five for our room). There were about six to ten different cats that pranced around the resort. As opposed to animals I had seen in Cuba or the Dominican, these felines looked extremely well-fed and well-groomed so I didn't mind having them wander by in the dining room. Em and I even took to naming some of the cats after our friends as if they were there at dinner with us (too weird?)

On the whole the weather wasn't the greatest. We had three full days where it didn't rain while the other four were either overcast or had patches of clouds. On the days it didn't rain it was HOT. I'm talking 22-24 degrees! This meant that on the two full days of full sun we hit the beach early in the morning and stayed until the sun began to set around 4pm. These were my favorite days. Only in certain places in Europe can you bask in the sunshine in just a bathing suit and need to cool off in the sea, and Turkey is luckily one of them. We sat in lounge chairs and listened to our favorite songs through ipod headphones, we frolicked in the Mediterranean sea, we drank beers from the beach bar, and finally, we wondered what everyone back home was doing while we were lucky enough to be on the Turkish Riviera (apparently it was shoveling snow??)

On Thursday we went on a day excursion to Alanya, the city closest to the resort. We were told that from the top of the castle you could see the whole city so we decided to make that our first visit. A kind man in the village had told us that no one usually walks up the roads to the castle since it takes an hour. We listened politely to his advice but promptly decided that walking up to the castle was exactly what we wanted to do. During the trip up I couldn't have felt more away from Canada. As we walked, we took in the architecture of our surroundings, interacted with a few of the city's inhabitants, and heard a prayer from a mosque over a loud speaker far in the distance. The view from the top was extraordinary. We spent a good 45 minutes walking through the ruins of the castle and peering down on the colourful city of Alanya. We walked down a different route along the harbour where we were continually offered "great deals" on boat tours - since it was the off-season, street vendors and anyone who had something to sell was continually bombarding us with questions.

After purchasing a few small items from a shop, we settled into an outdoor cafe for an authentic Turkish coffee - it looked like tar and created a muddy type of coffee solid at the bottom of the cup. It was delicious. The nice man who served us also asked us to try the hookah he was smoking outside the shop (when in Turkey!) We had a most perfect day trip to Alanya where the orange trees grow and the coffee is strong and bitter. On the topic of "when in Turkey", every toilet at the hotel had a bidet. If you are unaware of the term I suggest you place it into a google search. Without going into detail, Emily and I made a decision to use the bidet at least once while at the resort. Talk about saving the environment! Why haven't bidets been mentioned in any plans for paper conservation? It's a different way of doing things, but I don't see why it's an inferior method.

The two most relaxing parts of the trip were our time spent in the Mediterranean and in the Turkish Bath and Sauna. The sea was the cleanest water I've ever swam in. You could usually see to the bottom where you were swimming and, as always, I felt like the salt water was doing wonders for my skin. The Turkish Bath was a room made of marble with basins of water attached to the wall. The combination of the marble, steam, and air-tight seal meant it was like a sauna where you'd take a bowl of water from a basin and continually pour it over you. Near the end of the trip I spent 20£ for a spa deal which included a full body scrub in the Bath, a facial peel, and a 30 minute massage - the price was lower because it was the off-season. The massage alone was forth the twenty quid; I felt like a new man after the treatment.

Aside from all the comforts of a week away from school and commitment, Emily and I had an absolute ball. There wasn't really any young pals to tag around with at the resort so we amused ourselves observing the characters, lounging in the lobby bar, watching Turkish MTV (which played the same videos on a six hour loop), playing our usual survival games, and considering just where else this crazy European adventure would take us. It was comforting to spend a week with a dear friend from home who knew all the in-jokes and had a shared history. We were able to talk in-depth about the future, the fate of the world, and all that is great about the place we call home. It's at this time that all the news outlets will produce their 2008 Year in Review. I feel that, without talking about it, Turkey was both a year in review, for two friends who spent the majority of the year together, and also a look towards an exciting 2009 full of possibility.

From here, after hording the internet computers for over an hour, Emily and I head to Paris where we are sure to have a memorable Christmas. It will be sad to be away from all that is familiar, but exciting to explore how the holiday is celebrated in another country. It is my hope that you aren't burdened by too much snow, and are happy back home in a country I miss more and more with each passing week.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: I'm taking inspiration from my surroundings at John Lennon Airport and wishing for a peaceful holiday for you and yours:

"And so this is Christmas

For weak and for strong

For Rich and for poor ones

The road is so long

And so Happy Christmas

For black and for white

For yellow and red ones

Let's stop all the fight"

Season's Greetings from the Bloggers.doc

Emily and I leave for Manchester in an hour en route to Turkey and then Paris for Christmas!

A memory of Christmases past:

Season's Greetings from Hincksy and the Doctor:

Doc's Prescription of the Day: I hope you are spending the Holidays with those you love.

London, One More Time.doc

To describe the past four days as busy would be an understatement. But to describe them as a brilliant send off from England would be bang on. For all intensive purposes, this past weekend has been the last few days of travel in this fine country. While I am back between Rennes and Edinburgh, the visit from Thursday to Saturday was also my last time spent in London - a city that energizes me more with every visit.

The trip was planned to see Andrew, a friend of the family who lives and works in the city. The last time I had seen Andrew was sometime around 1990 when he accompanied the family on a vacation to Myrtle Beach! It is hard to believe 18 years have past since then. Andrew is the Rector of St. Mary Woolnoth Church near London Bridge and is the Director of the Centre for Spirituality in London. He told me of a visit from Desmond Tutu last year as part of the opening celebration of a new green space for the church where they hope to hold outdoor performances.

Andrew was generous enough to get us tickets for a play at the National called August: Osage County. I found it a bit ironic that I was seeing an American family drama in London, but the production was first rate (it's no wonder it has been exported from Broadway to London). If I had to describe the drama it would be a contemporary 2008 Long Day's Journey into Night - it's bigger, bolder, and peels back the family portrait to reveal the festering wounds hidden beneath. The play also is a long journey into night clocking in at a whopping three and a half hours. Andrew and I both agreed that it was a tour de force. Chelcie Ross and Amy Morton gave particularly strong performances as the drug addicted matriarch and the daughter who must try to unite the family once again. We had a quick dinner at the interval (intermission) that you order in advance and is ready to eat before the start of Act Two. How innovative! Small side note - the English don't give standing ovations (unless something is truly groundshakingly good, I think). I much prefer this convention rather than being coerced to your feet by an over-excited public. The audience was incredibly appreciative of the performance (you could tell by the strength of the clap) but didn't feel the need to rise with enthusiasm.

Andrew lives on the outskirts of London in a suburb called Forest Hill. This meant taking a small train in to the main metro (think Go train from Oakville to Toronto). Friday morning I left Forest Hill and met Andrew at London Bridge Station. During his break from work we wandered through the Borough Street Market where he purchased fish, bread, breakfast specialties, and some really strong cheese! The cheese shop he took me to gave out loads of free samples - strong and rich (I have one friend who would be in cheese heaven). I got the full tour of the three spaces that compose the church where Andrew works. They are surrounded on Lombard Street by a number of insurance companies. We popped into an old English pub and had a hot sandwich and a pint for lunch alongside the business crowd.

With Andrew back at work, I made my way to the Tate Modern - a museum I had been looking to visit since September. Without a doubt it was the most impressive collection of art work I've ever seen. The Turbine Hall is the main space which feels like the inside of a factory (I think it once was) and it holds a rotating installation which changes every six months or so. Because of the enormity of the space, the pieces inside are epic in design. The current exhibit considers a London of the future and the artifacts that may be preserved after a natural disaster. I spent the next two hours on the second floor seeing work from the likes of Matisse, Monet, Pollock, Picasso, Bacon, Dali, and Kandinsky among many others. It's hard to describe the two hour wander but it was as if books featuring these works had come alive. I have to return later in the year to continue up the floors.

It just so happens that a friend from Queen's, Stuart Adrian, was celebrating his birthday on the Friday night. With Andrew at a staff Christmas party, I was free to hit the town and visit a true London flat party. It felt great to be among some Canadians again - there were four of there! Stuart is a business guy so a lot of his friends were from work. The champagne was flowing and great tunes were playing. I felt miles away from the quiet Heronbank flat and at the centre of a bustling metropolis! I unfortunately couldn't accompany the gang to the bar, since the troops began to mobilize around midnight and I needed to get back to Forest Hill, but I found a 24 night bus no problem and managed to make it back safe and sound. 

The next morning I had a traditional English breakfast with Andrew and Martin. Now I've had a few breakfasts in pubs and restaurants since arriving but none as good as the one I was treated to before leaving. Among the staples of breakfast you'd expect was also baked mushrooms and tomatoes as well as sausage and haggis. What a treat! With that I said goodbye with plans to visit upon returning later in the summer. It was the first time I really felt "at home" in London after having visited at various points throughout the term.

I returned to Warwick where I have been travel planning ever since - lots of to do lists and train and plane confirmation numbers. We have 20 transportation connections alone for the next three weeks of travel! Tonight I had a lovely meal with Emily's Aunt Shelia and Uncle Doug in Birmingham. Like the breakfast, it was nice to sit down to a home cooked dinner. I have been so lucky that the Hincks clan, at home and abroad, have welcomed me into their homes. After having visited Birmingham a few times this semester, it was nice to see it with those who know the top spots.

Tomorrow Emily and I leave for Manchester en route to a week in Turkey!

Doc's Prescription of the Day: Big English Breakfasts! Why have we neglected a place for tomatoes, mushrooms, and, yes, even haggis at our breakfast tables? I say the more the merrier.

Blades of Glory.doc

I've been furiously looking to GET THINGS DONE over these past few days with little time to tie up loose ends before heading off and facing disconnection for two weeks. I'll be happy not to be tied to my computer, but there are so many messages I have to write before then. I don't even know where I'm living in Amsterdam in just over three weeks. As always though, it will all work itself out.

The holiday and travel crunch has relegated the essay to second billing. I have managed to get my intro sorted out and two pages on paper, but I look forward to having time this coming Saturday and Sunday morning to try and sort out the rest of the structure. This might mean I'm taking an article or two with me to Turkey but it might prove essential. Since the paper is only 10 pages, and due just under a month from now, like the above paragraph states: it will all work itself out. Well, it might not work itself out, but I'll work it all out one way or another.

Last night, Bec, Lotte, and I took a break from our respective holiday planning and went for a night out in Coventry (a poor man's Leamington Spa). It was, in fact, Lotte's last night on campus so we were giving her a royal send off before heading to the dark land of Finland where in the second term she'll be popping Vitamin tablets due to the lack of sun - I think can expected to get four hours a day. We hopped on the bus to Cov and upon arrival wandered around yet another brightly lit up city. I think I mentioned it in an early post but Coventry is all concrete and lacks old buildings (due to the bombings in WWII). The Christmas displays were nice, but not as picturesque as the ones in the quaint little town of Stratford.

We went to a restaurant called Nandos which is what I think is the UK equivalent to Swiss Chalet! Claire will be able to tell me if I've got this one right. Their signature dish is the quarter or half chicken with chips and another side. The difference in preparation is that instead of a roississerie style with gravy, they spice things up with peri-peri sauce; there is no Festive Special with chocolate to take home. The food was quite good and, like Swiss Chalet, came really quickly. Instead of sitting down and having a server you queue at the front to place your order and the meal is brought to your table when it is ready. The girls got Chicken pitas and I dug into a 1/2 chicken dinner. It made me wish for some Swiss Chalet gravy.

The highlight of the night was the second leg of the night spent at the Skydome! No friends, I did not travel back in time to a pre-2005 Roger's Centre, but instead went to Coventry's sport complex where holiday iceskating was in full swing. Now, skating is something that we talked about doing all the time back home (and friends can attest to my desire to go) so I was more than excited to lace up once again. Two hours in the rink and a pair of skates to "hire" was only 6 quid - what a steal! So I laced up my skates and hit the ice. The first few laps were spent a bit tentatively, since I hadn't had skates on in over two years, but I got my feet under me quite quickly. After 10 minutes I noticed that I had most of the speed I originally had, but was having trouble turning corners and doing the spray stop. It took me a glance down to realize that I was wearing figure skates instead of hockey skates. In the excitement of jumping out onto the ice I didn't even register the style. To give me some credit, I didn't think I'd be handed a size 12 mens figure skates. Apparently they have them in that size!

I negotiated with the guy behind the counter, and after five minutes spent rummaging in the back room, he procured me a pair of real hockey skates. The difference was pronounced. Not only could I perform every little skill I had learned in my thirteen years at the rink, but I felt like I had never taken skates off. If I had to maneouver in another form for the rest of my life, it would be with skates on the ice. I don't mean to puff myself up but I was far and away the best skater at the rink - they may be better football players, but skaters the Brits are not. Bec wanted to shoot a movie with my camera so, like typical performance students, we improvised something fun. Lotte's horrendous skating ability makes me laugh in this clip:

Some other photo documentation:

We've become a great little group of three during first term and it will be sad to see Lotte head to Finland. She has already made plans to come and visit during April. Hopefully we'll find someone just as fun in Amsterdam to join our adventures.

I head to London this afternoon where I'll be staying there for Thursday and Friday night. I'm staying with a dear family friend named Andrew who is the rector at St. Mary Woolnoth Church in London. We are seeing August: Osage County at the National tonight and on Friday night I'm popping by a friend's birthday party in the city. I head back here on Saturday afternoon where I will spent the remainder of the weekend furatively preparing to depart on Monday morning.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: I think it's an obvious one. Strap on those skates and head out to the rink. Nathan Phillips Square, perhaps?

Back to Life, Back to Reality.doc

To backtrack and ensure I don't miss an exciting event, I'm rewinding back to last Thursday night. It was the night before our final presentations and just so happened to be the class field trip to Stratford to see the RSC's production of Romeo and Juliet. Now, my mind was on the execution of the project the next day, but I managed to enjoy the visit to Stratford nonetheless. The theatre atmosphere is different here in the UK. It's hard to explain how exactly, but there's a different feeling in the air - the dress seems more formal, a lot of people check their coats, drinks can be taken into the venue, and the unwrapping of candies during performance is not a sin. Maybe it was that I was excited to be seeing Shakespeare's play performed in the city he once inhabited, but there was an electricity in the air I don't often feel at the theatre.

Obviously, since it's the RSC, the venue was gorgeous and the performance was impressive. When I say impressive I mean it looked and sounded really great. The actors were top calibre which made the dialogue incredibly clear. The set, music, and lighting were all executed well - for the final scenes, the walls raised and a tomb materialized out of no where. It was really cool to watch some money being spent. 

Where the production fell flat was in the placement of the play in an early 20th century gangster type setting . The Caps and the Monts tried to intimidate each other by brandishing small pocket knives. Asides were sometimes accomplished when a character snapped their fingers into a lighting change while everyone froze. Not so impressive. Also, the Juliet was a disappointment - she appeared extremely unqualified next to the RSC veterans. She made Juliet a more mature and thoughtful character. Having had a close friend play the part, she can attest that the 14 year old may be smart, but her choices are not motivated by reason. In summary, while the production may been a bit underwhelming, the atmosphere of Stratford certainly was not. There is a sold-out Hamlet on right now with Patrick Stewart as Claudius, but you have to line up overnight to snag one of the only ten tickets set aside. I plan to catch more productions when I return in the summer.

These past few days have been a bit of a rejuvenation (hence the all important post title). I feel like I've busted out of the school grind and can focus on catching up with people back home and getting ready for a nomadic month of December. I was pulling some late nights here on campus getting material ready for the exhibit, but now have a bit more time to sleep in and focus on the 'to-do' list.

When I say I've gotten out from under the grind it means that I've been able to approach the mountain of emails and messages I've received over the past week and do some justice getting back to people. Speaking of correspondence, I have to thank my friend Jess for sending me such thoughtful holiday items to brighten up the institutional Heronbank room. Don't worry Mom, thanks to Jess, I have my very own Christmas stocking, ornament, and bell. Ima be sure to stuff the stocking full of French baguettes and wine, place the ornament over our Parisian hotel mantle, and ring the bell so French angels can get their wings. Thank you Jess! I'm including a photo of my ever growing bulletin board where I happily display items from Canada. I've gotten more mail from CIBC than I ever did in Canada..and I'm not even a client.

On the subject of getting mail from home, while I always find it funny to get letter addressed with the Dr. prefix, I'm wondering what the repercussions of my nickname might be. The man who handed me the delivery from the post office today matched my name to my student card to that on the outside of the package: Dr. Keith Bennie. I'm sure he wouldn't have called me sir if there hadn't been the Dr. on the front. My hope is that I never actually find myself in a circumstance where I am mistaken for a doctor - I don't want it to seem like I have little appreciation for just how much work it takes to earn the title. Also, because I have no medical training whatsoever. OK, 1 CPR course, but that doesn't count. Love the nickname, but the potential a misunderstandings is very possible.

Yesterday we went out for a few pints to see some of the MAIPR students off for the holidays. Geography has really been the deciding factor in whether or not students are going home - all the Brits, Dev from India, the two Singaporeans, and Courtney from the States are off to their families. The rest of us are either sticking around here (not me) or traveling with friends in other parts of Europe. It appears that Bec, my Australian friend, will be in Paris for Christmas so hopefully she can join us for a coffee or a meal while we're there. With separate mobility periods we've had to say goodbye to half the group that's heading to Finland for six months. This includes Lotte who always makes me laugh - she's probably the one who reminds me of friends back home the most. It will be a shame to part ways, but we've got a really great crew going to Holland.

I spent today in Leamington Spa with a little light shopping and a Starbuck's Christmas Blend. When I say shopping it wasn't for gifts, which I'm ever thankful not to buy this year (because we all have everywhere we really need don't we?), but rather for trip essentials, to pickup some photos I had printed, and for a haircut. It was nice to get off campus and out from the library shackles to be among real people again. The girl that cut my hair had been born in Canada and moved back to England when she was three. Unlike some of the awkward haircut conversations I've had, admit it you've all been there (except you Emily), we had a delightful chat about the differences between our countries. She knew an awful lot about us. I decided to put the start of my essay off until tomorrow and instead I've rid myself of some the paperwork I've amassed this first term. Only six sleeps in Heronbank left between now and moving out - lots to gradually pack up. A bit of a Christmas shot:

Doc's Prescription of the Day: I referenced it two posts ago, but I've decided to make it an actual prescription that's being written as we speak: National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation. It's not too early. And it's the funniest holiday movie there is. Anyone challenge?

Term One Comes to a Close.doc

Week ten of the term has come and gone. Yesterday all three MAIPR groups - curation, scholarship, and creative practice - presented their final projects to the cohort of students and faculty. The presentations mark the official end of first term. After handing in an assignment due on Monday, I'll be free to travel around through December and January. I then arrive back in the class room on February 1 in Amsterdam. That's right, just under two months off in Europe.

Yesterday's final presentation went extremely well. My group, who had been slotted into the curation modality, created an exhibit interacting with notions of national identity in the theatre. We sought to question the claim that we are living in an age post-nation in which the search for national identity has become less important in a more globalized world. In light of the constitutional crisis going on back home, the question of identity has never seemed more important in regards to the future direction of the country. As I put together the Canada section of the exhibit (each group member created a station based around a play or playwright from their country), I couldn't help but feel proud of our socially liberal and fiscally conservative country, but also fearful of its future. 

I featured Wajdi Mouawad's Scorched as a play that deals with questions of national identity. My station statement read as follows: Wajdi Mouawad is a Lebanese-born Quebecois artist. He makes little claim to be writing about Canadian identity – in fact, the majority of the action of his plays takes place outside the country’s borders. Yet, it is his exploration of the need, as a nation of immigrants, to revisit our individual origins, that proposes a picture of a globalized Canadian identity. Scorched features a pair of twins who must return to the country of their Mother’s birth to discover who they really are. In addition to a display which contextualized the play and its production history, I performed a looped six minute monologue of text from the play at the centre of my space. Here are some pretty pictures:

My station lingered between exhibit and installation. One of the strengths of our efforts was the diversity of  approaches by the group members in answering the same question - we all displayed our material differently and utilized a variety of performance modes. While I struggled working for four weeks in a group (my A-type personality does not always mesh with collective work), the process, as opposed to the final product, is where I really learned a lot. I think originally I gravitated towards curation because it was something I hadn't done before. I've visited a lot of museums in the past two months and I now know some of the considerations that are made before any material is displayed: contextualization, navigation, selection, collaboration, mediation, interpretation, and synthesis. It's a long process but I find the work quite interesting. I think I may add it to the list of job options to explore upon return.

After the three presentations, the students and staff did a first term debrief - we talked about where we started and how we got to the end of term. The discussion reminded me how special this program is. Where else would I be able to study theatre and performance with students from ten different countries? I'm certain to blog about it in more depth later on, but I know this international opportunity has changed me already. I've never felt more out of my comfort zone, but I've learned so much about communicative and pedagogical methods that attempt to create a bridge between cultures. With this knowledge comes an international awareness which I thought I had, but which was never tested. In Amsterdam, our group will join students coming from the site in Finland - it's yet another opportunity to meet more new international friends. 

As you can guess, we were ecstatic to have the term wrapped up. As rewarding as the ten weeks have been, they've been pretty intense. The group of us got together last night, save for Lotte who had to rush off to London for rehearsals, and had one more hurrah before some of the students leave for home. As so often happens with our group, we met in one of the Heronbank kitchens with some libations and played a variety of "games" before departing for The Spa. The rules of the games have to be explained usually five to eight times just so everyone is on the same page - it's an endearing feature of our group. Dev, the drama teacher from India, makes me laugh like no other when he has a few drinks in him; he's a natural comedian. The running joke is that once Dev + Amsterdam will be too much to handle. 

We jumped on the bus, as one has to do to get off campus for a night out, and made our way to two fine establishments over the course of the evening: The White Horse, which I've been to twice before, and Smack which is a club I had heard a lot about. It was a great night all around. I could sense the group felt liberated after successfully conquering the final projects of term. It was good to let loose and not worry about deadlines, as we had been doing for the past four weeks. I had a late night, post-pub, post-bar, post-club skype chat with Miss Van Dyk last after getting home. Probably a bad idea, but entertaining for her I'm certain. 

 

This weekend I'll be looking to get this assignment done for Monday, which shouldn't prove too taxing, and then I'll start getting my ducks in a row before jumping into the Christmas travel spirit. Emily and I are partners in crime again in just about a week!

Doc's Prescription of the Day: A Saturday off, if you can manage it! I'm taking it easy today after working on all cylinders this past week. Hopefully your Saturday will be somewhat restful; avoid those malls.

I Pronounce thee 'Noteworthy'.doc

I realized this morning that I hadn't christened December with a blog post. It's been (gasp!) almost three days since I said goodbye to November with a recount of the Ale Fest and musing on the political turmoil in Ottawa. The reason for my lack of posting has actually been a lack of action - I've been spending my mornings, afternoons, and evenings working on the final presentation for Friday. Since I'm sure you don't want to hear about the boring nature of during these work sessions, today will be a list of random news items I'm deeming noteworthy.

Note one: I received my first Christmas Card of the season from my Aunt Theresa and Uncle Ed on Monday. It was a subtle reminder how much I'll miss the comforts of Christmas that I've always known - the annual family get together early on in the month, relaxing in the living room with the dog, and having coffee, o.j., and pastries on Christmas morning.

Note two: I received my second Christmas Card of the season from Miss Megan Marie Deeks on Tuesday. It was a subtle reminder how much I'll miss the newer comforts of Christmas that I've come to look forward to - the Bay store windows downtown, spinach dip at a DTD Christmas party for thirty, and a memorable New Years spent with friends (Jess - RIP a camera and a coat).

Note three: I received what I'm calling my Christmas Bonus this morning. Since the money has been earmarked for mobility costs to Amsterdam, which FYI is only costing me 70 quid in trains and a ferry, the rest will go towards the traveling planned for this month as well as mainland Europe jaunts once I settle in my new Dutch digs. I feel like Clark Griswald in that, oh so good, holiday flick. Side note: Emma and I often joked this summer that in our morning jog workout gear, we were the Todd  and Margo of Prescott (Clark's neighbours). Instead of an in ground pool (as if) I'm putting the money into a European vacation - also a National Lampoon's flick. 

Note four: My parents just returned from a ten day Caribbean cruise and had a wonderful time. I don't want to make all you Canadian readers jealous, but they said the temperatures were in the eighties and the visits to the ports along the way were top-rate. I can picture my Mom with a cup of hot tea scrolling through all the posts that were inaccessible while on the boat. I warned them to cancel the trip, for fear of blog withdrawal, but they've managed to return in one piece.

Note five: The temperature where we'll be staying in Turkey is 70 degrees fahrenheit today. Hincks and I won't be basking in eighty degree temps in two weeks, but there is some indication that it could range anywhere from the mid-sixties to the mid-seventies with the possibility for some rain. Regardless of the weather, I know we're going to have a smashing time. A note to travelers who book with Thomas Cook over here in the UK - there is an extra cost to request seats on the plane together! As well, we had to book a return shuttle from the airport to the hotel in advance as it was not included in the all-inclusive price we paid. Since the cost of the trip was so low these extra costs aren't outrageous, but it's a reminder how wonderful the ITRAVEL 2000 group really is. If you're looking for a vacation maybe you should...call 1-866. Wow. Deal. And get away for less (rinse and repeat).

Note six: I've only spent sixty quid on my mobile phone while in the UK - this includes the phone itself and three months of service. Twenty dollars per month for all phone related costs is unheard of in the Canada. Granted, my phone gets a lot less use than it would back home, but there is something really backward about all the cell contracts that lock customers in for three years. When I return, I'm sticking with the European pay-as-you-go. 

Note seven: Jack and potato is my favourite British lunch time meal. At first it sounded to me like a super hero duo - Jack & Potato, fighting crime and taking names. It's actually less glamorous than that; it's a baked potato with jack cheese. You can add a whole bunch of toppings to the potato and thus create a filling lunch time meal. I usually add tuna to get some protein. They're very popular here.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: Consider what exactly we deem of note and what information we ignore or decide not to pass on. This blog, for instance, could be said to be an archive of everything I've deemed worthy to share. What little notes from your day are you deeming worthy to share with others?

An Ailment from School Work.doc

Last night, a few of us from the program headed down to the 30th Annual University of Warwick Real Ale Festival (as opposed to those fake ale festivals). The three day event is the largest student run beer festival in the UK. Upon entering we were handed a program which listed the different varieties of ale; there were over 200 different kegs! There's one thing I've learned about British culture since my time here - they know how to pour a good pint. Not only that, but for as much as the French know the specifics of wine, the Brits have knowledge about beer brewing that I didn't know existed. I was aware of dry, fruity, dark, bitter, and cream tasting beers, but did you know there are ales with hints of chocolate, espresso, grapefruit, apricot, burnt toast, caramel, and vanilla?

A ten quid token card bought you ten different half pints - a mere dent in the 200 that were available. If you're decent with math, that works out to five pints for ten quid (try getting away with that in Canada!) Among the highlights of our sampling were the Oscar Wilde Mild and the Dark Side of the Moose. We also couldn't help but indulge in a pulled pork sandwhich from the pork roast that was going on alongside the ale sipping. Add to the mix the Warwick Brass Band playing a host of patriotic songs and it was just about the most British I've felt while over here. By the time I come back to Canada, I expect to be able to give advice on the differences between ales, lagers, stouts, and everything else hop and barley related. The downside is that instead of two quid, I'll be paying $6 plus tip for things back in Toronto.

Most of the weekend has been spent trying to get last minute details ready for the curation exhibit our group is putting up this Friday. One of the great things about this project is that I've actually learned a lot about the process that goes into curating an exhibit/installation in a museum. Since this is often an overlooked area of theatre research, it has been rewarding to learn some practical skills that I'll hopefully be able to use in a job after the MA year. Not only has the Tarragon Theatre been more than helpful (sending me a PDF of Scorched and access to all production photos) but Mr. Mouawad's agent air mailed two paperback copies of the plays free of charge. It is encouraging to know that Canadian artists and companies are keen to have their work talked about in academic circles around the world.

It seems as if I'm away from my country at one of the most interesting moments in the history of Canadian politics. I'm sure you've heard, but on December 8 a no-confidence motion will be put to a vote in the House of Commons. It's evident to me that recent Tory backtracks on the issues of the right to strike for civil servants and the elimination of political party subsidies signal that the party is scrambling to maintain control after a woeful fall update presented by Jim Flaherty. Still, it is not these issues that those wishing to form a coalition attack, but rather the lack of any stimulus or longterm plan to address the slowing economy. While the economy may be the official issue coalition forces are citing, it really is the elimination of public funding for political parties which has lead to the attack.

With Jean Chretien and Ed Broadbent negotiating behind the scenes, it seems as if the opposition parties are getting ready to strike. In light of the Conservative government's recent and crippling cuts to arts funding in Canada (in addition to a host of other possibly damaging legislation lurking on the horizion), I'm in favour of a coalition taking control. I realize the extreme significance of such a vote, in light of the recent election and the current economic crisis, but this is the chance to attack the weakness of a very arrogant Conservative government. If you read the pomposity of Jim Flaherty's defence of his update, specifically the elimination of public party subsidies designed to cripple every party but the Tories, you'll become aware of the immensity of the mistake the government has made with this November 28 speech. I am highly skeptical that the Governor-General would allow the Liberal-led coalition to govern, and instead call another election, but if she does, my hope is that between now and Monday they can settle on a competent leader rather than relying on Lame Duck Dion. I've been an Ignatieff fan since the last Liberal convention, which would need an unlikely stepping aside from both Dion and Rae, but Ralph Goodale who be a fine choice for the time being. It will be an interest week nonetheless.

I'll conclude this Sunday night installment with a thought provoking, but highly enjoyable, video I saw on the weekend:



This is the last post of November. Tomorrow we will officially move into Holidayland which for me will be travel month. I've managed 16 posts this month which works out to just about one every second day. I hope you're continuing to enjoy, but not to worry if you are way behind and don't read as often as I post (in which case you'll be reading this two weeks from now). I've come to realize the blog, as an archive of the time spent over here, is just as much for me as it is for all of you. I hope that doesn't sound too selfish, but it's true.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: Even if the parliamentary happenings are hard to follow (there are a multitude of possible scenarios), it's best to keep updated as to what's going down. Some interesting political drama will be unfolding in the next week.

Hej, Stockholm: Part Three.doc

The first year class I've spent the last two weeks with is presenting their final presentations today - it's exciting to see the nervous energy in their eyes and the relief that comes with a job well done. They are provided 40 minutes set-up and strike for the 10 minute presentation so I figured I'd write this post during those setup times. Eight groups presenting from noon - 8:00pm (a long day indeed). Much like the year of teaching at Queen's, I feel a kind of big brother support for the kids after having helped them with their ideas and checked in with them along the way. I've seen two of the presentations so far and it's thrilling to see where they've integrated my ideas and where they've progressed leaps and bounds beyond what they originally had to show. It's difficult to put into words, but in the little instructing experience I've had, there is a certain warmth and pride that comes with seeing your students succeed. It should be a really memorable day.

On to the Stockholm wrap-up!

You may ask why I've spread the experience over three posts. It relates to a quotation I read before setting off a few months ago: "A traveler without observation is a bird without wings." — Moslih Eddin Saadi. I think there is truth in this (especially with such a public online platform). It's easy to log an event by event summary of my adventures (see Part 1) but it takes a bit more reflection to offer some thoughts about the culture to which I was introduced. Without further ado...

You're going where?: Sweden was a bit of a random choice, but the visit taught me something I hadn't really thought of before. It seems as if there is a mythology about Europe being "the place" you have to visit before starting your professional career. Not only is the idea that you have to visit before chaining yourself to a desk completely absurd, but so is the misconception that it "can be seen" in a six week tour (let alone a year for that matter). Those of us North Americans privileged with the financial means would tend to plot out a trip to hit the "important spots" which usually means seeing the major city (or cities if you're lucky) in the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Germany, the Netherlands, and one or two others that may strike your fancy. The visit to Sweden happened on a whim; Paul found cheap flights and asked if I'd like to come along. I don't know if I would have visited otherwise, since it wasn't on the original list that I had conceived of. The list has now been thrown out the window. I'm saying yes to everything I can afford. And it just so happens that the next country I'll be visiting will be Turkey. I'll be in Finland for a week in June and cannot wait to experience more of the Nordic culture. It took arriving in Sweden, a place I had never pictured myself in before, to realize just what kind of place I've landed in (meaning Europe). The continent stretches far and beyond the central privileged countries thought of as "the must see spots."

Friendly People: Of course it's a generalization, but the Swedish people are the nicest Europeans I've come in contact with. While the stereotype of the French is unjust and the British stiff upper lip isn't always the case, both cultures have presented a more reserved welcome to their respective countries. It's not that I've come in contact with people who were rude, but rather they are not as likely to go the extra mile and ensure a welcome as Canadians tend to do. At the majority of the places Paul and I visited we met smiling and generous guides who were more than happy to answer our questions and point us in the right direction. We made many comparisons to the way in which the landscape was similar to home, which was completely forgotten when we arrived at the urban centre, but it really was the warmth of the people we met that reminded me of Canada. It might have something to do with the similarity in climate or maybe a shared experience of being overshadowed by countries in close proximity which breeds an appreciation for travelers who visit, but I felt more at home in Sweden than I have at Warwick. Hej Sweden, you rock.

Language Barrier: It wasn't difficult to get around in Sweden using English. I scribbled a list of words in my journal and was able to try and use them when appropriate. The people sometimes seemed amused, but were always appreciative that I at least made an effort. I won't go over all of the new Swedish words I learned, and will hopefully utilize again in future trips, but the one that we found most enjoyable was their greeting. Hej = Hi and is pronounced as "hey". It seems straightforward enough, but it was really interesting that a greeting we interpret as laid-back and informal was being used in a variety of different circumstances. Instead of meeting strangers with a formal hello or hi, the hej alternative seemed much more personal (maybe secretly, this is why I thought the people were so friendly). I think Swedish culture was a good test run for my time in Amsterdam where I hope to learn as much of the language as possible, but will be interacting in English for the most part.

The Trendy Factor: The home of H&M and Ikea didn't disappoint. The Sweds are a svelte, well dressed, and beautiful group of people. I wondered if it's something in the drinking water, but Paul (the scientist expert) said that actually it has a lot to do with the genes. I was hoping there was an exhibit at the Nobel Museum about it but I was sorely disappointed. Since I'm not of a science mind I won't try and explain why this might be so, but I have recognized the way in which Europeans weigh less, go to work less, wear clothes better, and relax better than us North Americans. The Christmas Market we were at was PACKED on a Sunday night with loads of families enjoying the winter weather, and later on that night we saw hordes of tobogganers fly at breakneck speed down a huge hill. It may be that the initial snowfalls are greeted with joy in Sweden like they are in Canada (and then cursed for the remainder of winter), but there was a carefree community attitude at the market that was really refreshing.

Stereotypes: It's been, and will continue to be, interesting for me to consider cultural stereotypes against the reality of what I encounter in each country. Sweden is an interesting case since I didn't know much about it before visiting, as opposed to countries like France and Italy for which I have a larger imagined picture. Deconstructing stereotypes:

i) There are a lot of blond haired, blue eyed people walking around, but by no means is it an overwhelming majority. There was less diversity than say in Toronto or London, but a wide variety of different looking people.

ii) H&M is extremely popular over there. Like I said, we spotted about seven different shops within a forty minute walk of one another. Then again, in England it seems as if there is a Marks and Spencer around every corner. A quantity of quality? I tend to think so.

iii) Mats Sundin is a national icon featured on billboards for a brand called Brother. The sports jacket he was wearing was listed at 499 Krona. He's got to make a salary somehow.

iv) We only saw one Ikea in our travels (gasp!) but I figure these are out in surrounding Stockholm, like they are in Canada, rather than in the downtown core. All the bedding at the hostel was from the popular store - such a good sleep.

v) The clubs played a little bit of Abba, possibly to satisfy foreign travelers, but it definitely wasn't a feature of the music scene. Drinks and cover were through the roof expensive (hence the hostel pregame) but the atmosphere couldn't be beat.

As you can tell, I hold fond memories of the weekend in Stockholm. Amidst the subzero temperatures and winds from the surrounding water, the city radiates a welcoming spirit sure to warm any new traveler to her Nordic landscape.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: If you're coming over here to visit or just planning a trip in the near future, consider spots off the beaten path. The "big ones" are of course important, but so too are the ones that surround.

Stockholm In All Its Beauty: Part Two.doc

As promised, part two of three detailing my Stockholm adventures. These pictures give you some idea of the type of spots we were able to visit in the 48 hours spent in the city. As you can see, snow blanketed the landscape, water surrounds just about everything, and yes, they are fond of their 7/11 just as much as we are.

View from the National Theatre

Sweden: The Home of H&M

Gamla Stan (Old Town)

Christmas Market (it was snowing)

Another shot of the Christmas Market

The Vassa Museum (a 17th century boat)

Winter Wonderland

Marching Towards the Royal Palace

Typical Building in the Background Shot

Still Water

Hostel Shot

Patricia (the boat bar)

Graffiti (I just really like this one)

Gröna Lund (Festive to the Max)

That's right...

I hope this gives you some idea how picturesque the setting is in Stockholm. I took 300 photos - sixty of which are on facebook and fifteen of which are on here. As you can tell, this just scratches the surface.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: If you take 300 photos, you're bound to settle on 80 that are good, 40 that are great, 10 that are stunning, and 1 that has that indelible something which makes it the favourite.

StockHOLM for a Rest: Part One.doc

I got back from Stockholm yesterday after an epic day of travel but had to attend to an essay outline and group meeting before getting down to the real business - letting everyone back home know about my weekend. It's unfathomable to tackle all that I saw in one post so this is how it's going to go down:

Part One: What I saw, where I went, and how I got there (summative but engaging)
Part Two: A photo entry (I know not everyone can see the photos on facebook so I'll post some of the best here)
Part Three: Observations and thoughts about my interaction with Sweden

Don't get overwhelmed. It won't all come at once and I encourage engaging with it your own pace.

Getting to Stockholm was a long journey. I travelled overnight from The Spa and was to meet up with Paul, who was taking a bus from Oxford, at Stansted Airport. Unfortunately it meant that I was working on little sleep, as the paranoia of missing my stop on the train caused me to stay awake, but I was running on excitement as we touched down at Skavsta Airport. On the one hour shuttle from the airport to the city centre, we marveled at how much Sweden reminded us of Canada - the route travelled on quite a rural path, there was a lot of green foliage, and a good 5cm of snow on the ground. That's right, I figured it was going to be cold in Sweden (it is Scandinavia) but I didn't expect a blanket of snow and more to come for the weekend. It was easily -10 C with the wind chill.

Upon arriving at the city centre our initial comparisons with the Canadian landscape were put to rest. Stockholm is an archipelago (a large group of islands) linked by bridges and, of course, a fantastically easy to navigate metro system. We jumped on the metro and got off at Gamla Stan, Stockholm's old town, which is arguably the most beautiful part of the city. Here we walked to our hostel, called Best Hostel Old Town, which looked out on the water. It was cool digs. We stayed at the top of the building on the fifth floor. The hostel had a newly renovated 'rec room' kind of feel and featured, what else, an Ikea comforter and sheet set. Also staying in the room were two Americans the one night and two Germans the other - we made friends with the Americans but the Germans kept to themselves.

Having arrived mid-afternoon on Saturday, we decided to drop our stuff and head for the sights. Our first stop was the Nobel Museum. Since Paul is a scientist, he was quite excited to check out the exhibits. Not only does the museum feature profiles on the current Nobel Laureates, but they have pockets of experiments, artifacts, and displays on some of the most groundbreaking work of the 20th Century. It was really interesting to see Watson and Crick featured alongside figures like Martin Luther King Jr. and Harold Pinter. We often think the Nobel Prize is strictly science related, but the exhibit highlighted both the literature and peace winners as well. There was also a really neat theatre and film exhibit of director Ingmar Bergman, who past away last year, that just happened to be on while we were visiting.

Outside the Nobel Museum was a charming Christmas market at the centre of Old Town featuring all kinds of wonderful food, ornaments, gifts, and household items. We bought some freshly roasted sugar coated peanuts as we walked. The surround of the old world buildings, some from the 16th Century, made the atmosphere come even more alive. Because it was after 5pm by the time we explored the Christmas market, all the other museums in the city were closed so we decided to hoof it around and visit some of the surrounding islands. Not only did we spot FIVE different H&M stores on our walk, but the Sweds go crazy for (get ready for it) 7/11! We passed by at least six different spots on the trip - it seems to be their preferred convenience store. I wonder if locals use the "sevs" for banking purposes like a friend of mine was known to do at the one in Kingston on Alfred St.

We returned to the hostel and got ready to hit the town. Stockholm could most definitely be considered a cosmopolitan city due to its inclusiveness and just the general urban makeup that embraces diversity. The club we went to was called Lino; it too overlooked the water. Paul and I prepared for the night the old fashion way - a pregame in the hostel with duty-free rum and coke from the 'sevs'. Doesn't get much more old school than that. We had be warned that drinks in Stockholm are expensive so we wanted to spend as little as possible. The club did not disappoint. After paying 100 Swedish Krona for cover (about 8 quid) we ventured through the three different rooms of music and the outdoor heated patio. Not only did they fill the Abba quota but they went back and forth between Swedish pop and recognizable American songs. Whenever we talked to a group of strangers they were always excited to hear we were from Canada. We met locals and other travelers as well a Swedish shoe designer who was opening stores all over Europe - talk about a cosmopolitan crowd. We returned to the hostel at 3:30am after being welcomed wholeheartedly to the city.

The next day was a bit of a whirlwind as we managed to hit as many important spots as possible: the Swedish National Theatre, the Royal Palace, the Vassa Museum, the Gröna Lund (think Sweden's Canada's Wonderland set up as a Christmas market), and of course the bar boat Patricia. The National Theatre was quite a sight to behold when you consider the type of government funded theatre in Canada. I'll include thoughts in Sweden Post #3, but the theatre was presenting a very ambitious season of classical work and the building itself was bold and opulent. One could really get the feeling that this has been the official site of the National arts for a long time.

The Royal Palace was equally as impressive. To give you some comparison, the rooms we toured were the official residence of the King of Sweden so it would be akin to a tour of the Queen's Buckingham digs in the UK. The Palace has a gorgeous dining room modeled after the Hall of Versailles and paneled with mirrors. As with many spots in Europe, I was struck by the curiosity of what might have taken place in the room I was currently standing in over the hundreds of years it had been used to host. We had planned the day so that we could catch the Changing of the Guard which takes place outside the palace. I was glad we did. Aside from the pomp and circumstance which accompanied the performance, there was a certain reverence paid to the event by those participating which signaled that it wasn't merely for show. I like palaces.

The Vassa Museum was on a separate island so we hopped on the metro. The museum houses a fully intact early 17th Century war vessel that sank in the Swedish harbour 25 minutes after setting sail for its maiden voyage (at least the Titanic made it out of the harbour). It was brought to the surface over six years in the 1960s and now stands on display. The most interesting feature of the exhibit, besides the power that a ship of that size commands, is that the museum was built on what was previously a ship yard. The structure was erected without a back wall which allowed the ship to be sailed into place. The water was then drained and the museum was sealed with a fourth wall. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Sweden.

We happened upon Gröna Lund by accident, but it was one of the highlights of the trip. The park just happened to have free admission on the Sunday we wandered in and it had just recently been decked out (like decked out to the fullest) in anticipation of Christmas. It's definitely one of those places that's hard to blog about but I would describe it as Canada's Wonderland meets the Ex meets Santa's workshop meets the Island of Misfit Toys. We had a blast just walking through the grounds sipping on mulled wine and eating Swedish treats. I feel that sometimes for all the museum stops you make (which are important in their own right) you really can experience a culture in the smallest and unlikely of places. This was the case with the small eatery we ventured into in the park where there was practically no English being spoken around us. The waitress pointed out the dish she considered to be most reflexive of Sweden Christmas and we were happy to take her advice. It was venison in a mushroom sauce with mashed potatoes and currents. Not only was the meal delicious, but the environment of the restaurant, which reminded me of a Chalet at the top of a mountain, in addition to the festive spirit outside created such a feeling of joy that's hard to articulate.

After 6pm hit and the museums and shops were closed, Paul and I spent the next two hours on an island we hadn't yet visited. This was a more trendy area of town which had many shops and eateries. We spotted a park where about a dozen young kids were tobogganing. We climbed the hill and jumped on some swings that overlooked some of the cityscape. I've come to realize that these unofficial zones, outside the tourist spots and the main strips, are some of the places where you feel most connected to the city you're exploring. We jetted back to the hostel and proceeded to recreate the events of the night previous and gear up for Patricia, the boat bar, which we realized we could see from the window of our hostel! To be completely honest, Patricia wasn't as fun as Lino (probably because it was a Sunday night) but the novelty of being on a boat never really wore off. The feel was really similar to Buddies...but moored in the harbour on a Sunday night. We obviously took lots of photos with the boat paraphernalia scattered throughout.

Monday morning we had a bit of an Amazing Race adventure as we slept in an hour late and missed the first shuttle to the airport. After catching a later one and arriving thirty minutes before the plane was suppose to take off (talk about cutting it short) we were greeted with a forty minute delay due to icy weather conditions - talk about perfect timing.

Thanks for following this far; I know it's a long post. Tomorrow I'll attach about a dozen photos so you can visualize some of what I've described and I'll follow that up with more solid observations of the Swedish culture which is lacking in this travel log.

Doc's Prescription for the Day: Think of the "official" and "unofficial" spots of culture in the city in which you currently reside. If you had a special visitor, just what would you show them that they may not find in any guidebook.