I got back from Stockholm yesterday after an epic day of travel but had to attend to an essay outline and group meeting before getting down to the real business - letting everyone back home know about my weekend. It's unfathomable to tackle all that I saw in one post so this is how it's going to go down:
Part One: What I saw, where I went, and how I got there (
summative but engaging)
Part Two: A photo entry (I know not everyone can see the photos on
facebook so I'll post some of the best here)
Part Three: Observations and thoughts about my interaction with Sweden
Don't get overwhelmed. It won't all come at once and I encourage engaging with it your own pace.
Getting to Stockholm was a long journey. I travelled overnight from The Spa and was to meet up with Paul, who was taking a bus from Oxford, at Stansted Airport. Unfortunately it meant that I was working on little sleep, as the paranoia of missing my stop on the train caused me to stay awake, but I was running on excitement as we touched down at
Skavsta Airport. On the one hour shuttle from the airport to the city centre, we marveled at how much Sweden reminded us of Canada - the route travelled on quite a rural path, there was a lot of green foliage, and a good 5cm of snow on the ground. That's right, I figured it was going to be cold in Sweden (it is Scandinavia) but I didn't expect a blanket of snow and more to come for the weekend. It was easily -10 C with the wind chill.
Upon arriving at the city centre our initial comparisons with the Canadian landscape were put to rest. Stockholm is an archipelago (a large group of islands) linked by bridges and, of course, a fantastically easy to navigate metro system. We jumped on the metro and got off at
Gamla Stan, Stockholm's old town, which is arguably the most beautiful part of the city. Here we walked to our hostel, called Best Hostel Old Town, which looked out on the water. It was cool digs. We stayed at the top of the building on the fifth floor. The hostel had a newly renovated 'rec room' kind of feel and featured, what else, an
Ikea comforter and sheet set. Also staying in the room were two Americans the one night and two Germans the other - we made friends with the Americans but the Germans kept to themselves.
Having arrived mid-afternoon on Saturday, we decided to drop our stuff and head for the sights. Our first stop was the Nobel Museum. Since Paul is a scientist, he was quite excited to check out the exhibits. Not only does the museum feature profiles on the current Nobel Laureates, but they have pockets of experiments, artifacts, and displays on some of the most groundbreaking work of the 20
th Century. It was really interesting to see Watson and Crick featured alongside figures like Martin Luther King Jr. and Harold Pinter. We often think the Nobel Prize is strictly science related, but the exhibit highlighted both the literature and peace winners as well. There was also a really neat theatre and film exhibit of director Ingmar Bergman, who past away last year, that just happened to be on while we were visiting.
Outside the Nobel Museum was a charming Christmas market at the centre of Old Town featuring all kinds of wonderful food, ornaments, gifts, and household items. We bought some freshly roasted sugar coated peanuts as we walked. The surround of the old world buildings, some from the 16
th Century, made the atmosphere come even more alive. Because it was after 5pm by the time we explored the Christmas market, all the other museums in the city were closed so we decided to hoof it around and visit some of the surrounding islands. Not only did we spot FIVE different H&M stores on our walk, but the
Sweds go crazy for (get ready for it) 7/11! We passed by at least six different spots on the trip - it seems to be their preferred convenience store. I wonder if locals use the "
sevs" for banking purposes like a friend of mine was known to do at the one in Kingston on Alfred St.
We returned to the hostel and got ready to hit the town. Stockholm could most definitely be considered a
cosmopolitan city due to its inclusiveness and just the general urban makeup that embraces diversity. The club we went to was called Lino; it too overlooked the water. Paul and I prepared for the night the old fashion way - a pregame in the hostel with duty-free rum and coke from the '
sevs'. Doesn't get much more old school than that. We had be warned that drinks in Stockholm are expensive so we wanted to spend as little as possible. The club did not disappoint. After paying 100 Swedish Krona for cover (about 8 quid) we ventured through the three different rooms of music and the outdoor heated patio. Not only did they fill the Abba quota but they went back and forth between Swedish pop and recognizable American songs. Whenever we talked to a group of strangers they were always excited to hear we were from Canada. We met locals and other travelers as well a Swedish shoe designer who was opening stores all over Europe - talk about a cosmopolitan crowd. We returned to the hostel at 3:30am after being welcomed wholeheartedly to the city.
The next day was a bit of a whirlwind as we managed to hit as many important spots as possible: the Swedish National Theatre, the Royal Palace, the
Vassa Museum, the
Gröna Lund (think Sweden's Canada's Wonderland set up as a Christmas market), and of course the bar boat Patricia. The National Theatre was quite a sight to behold when you consider the type of
government funded theatre in Canada. I'll include thoughts in Sweden Post #3, but the theatre was presenting a very ambitious season of classical work and the building itself was bold and opulent. One could really get the feeling that this has been the official site of the National arts for a long time.
The Royal Palace was equally as impressive. To give you some comparison, the rooms we toured were the official residence of the King of Sweden so it would be akin to a tour of the Queen's Buckingham digs in the UK. The Palace has a gorgeous dining room modeled after the Hall of Versailles and paneled with mirrors. As with many spots in Europe, I was struck by the curiosity of what might have taken place in the room I was currently standing in over the hundreds of years it had been used to host. We had planned the day so that we could catch the Changing of the Guard which takes place outside the palace. I was glad we did. Aside from the pomp and circumstance which accompanied the performance, there was a certain reverence paid to the event by those participating which signaled that it wasn't merely for show. I like palaces.
The
Vassa Museum was on a separate island so we hopped on the metro. The museum houses a fully intact early 17
th Century war vessel that sank in the Swedish harbour 25 minutes after setting sail for its maiden voyage (at least the Titanic made it out of the harbour). It was brought to the surface over six years in the 1960s and now stands on display. The most interesting feature of the exhibit, besides the power that a ship of that size commands, is that the museum was built on what was previously a ship yard. The structure was erected without a back wall which allowed the ship to be sailed into place. The water was then drained and the museum was sealed with a fourth wall. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Sweden.
We happened upon
Gröna Lund by accident, but it was one of the highlights of the trip. The park just happened to have free admission on the Sunday we wandered in and it had just recently been decked out (like decked out to the fullest) in anticipation of Christmas. It's definitely one of those places that's hard to blog about but I would describe it as Canada's Wonderland meets the Ex meets Santa's workshop meets the Island of Misfit Toys. We had a blast just walking through the grounds sipping on mulled wine and eating Swedish treats. I feel that sometimes for all the museum stops you make (which are important in their own right) you really can experience a culture in the smallest and unlikely of places. This was the case with the small eatery we ventured into in the park where there was practically no English being spoken around us. The waitress pointed out the dish she considered to be most reflexive of Sweden Christmas and we were happy to take her advice. It was venison in a mushroom sauce with mashed potatoes and currents. Not only was the meal delicious, but the environment of the restaurant, which reminded me of a Chalet at the top of a mountain, in addition to the festive spirit outside created such a feeling of joy that's hard to articulate.
After 6pm hit and the museums and shops were closed, Paul and I spent the next two hours on an island we hadn't yet visited. This was a more trendy area of town which had many shops and eateries. We spotted a park where about a dozen young kids were tobogganing. We climbed the hill and jumped on some swings that overlooked some of the cityscape. I've come to realize that these unofficial zones, outside the tourist spots and the main strips, are some of the places where you feel most connected to the city you're exploring. We jetted back to the hostel and proceeded to recreate the events of the night previous and gear up for Patricia, the boat bar, which we realized we could see from the window of our hostel! To be completely honest, Patricia wasn't as fun as Lino (probably because it was a Sunday night) but the novelty of being on a boat never really wore off. The feel was really similar to Buddies...but moored in the harbour on a Sunday night. We obviously took lots of photos with the boat
paraphernalia scattered throughout.
Monday morning we had a bit of an Amazing Race adventure as we slept in an hour late and missed the first shuttle to the airport. After catching a later one and arriving thirty minutes before the plane was suppose to take off (talk about cutting it short) we were greeted with a forty minute delay due to icy weather conditions - talk about perfect timing.
Thanks for following this far; I know it's a long post. Tomorrow I'll attach about a dozen photos so you can visualize some of what I've described and I'll follow that up with more solid observations of the Swedish culture which is lacking in this travel log.
Doc's Prescription for the Day: Think of the "official" and "unofficial" spots of culture in the city in which you currently reside. If you had a special visitor, just what would you show them that they may not find in any guidebook.