The trip was planned to see Andrew, a friend of the family who lives and works in the city. The last time I had seen Andrew was sometime around 1990 when he accompanied the family on a vacation to Myrtle Beach! It is hard to believe 18 years have past since then. Andrew is the Rector of St. Mary Woolnoth Church near London Bridge and is the Director of the Centre for Spirituality in London. He told me of a visit from Desmond Tutu last year as part of the opening celebration of a new green space for the church where they hope to hold outdoor performances.
Andrew was generous enough to get us tickets for a play at the National called August: Osage County. I found it a bit ironic that I was seeing an American family drama in London, but the production was first rate (it's no wonder it has been exported from Broadway to London). If I had to describe the drama it would be a contemporary 2008 Long Day's Journey into Night - it's bigger, bolder, and peels back the family portrait to reveal the festering wounds hidden beneath. The play also is a long journey into night clocking in at a whopping three and a half hours. Andrew and I both agreed that it was a tour de force. Chelcie Ross and Amy Morton gave particularly strong performances as the drug addicted matriarch and the daughter who must try to unite the family once again. We had a quick dinner at the interval (intermission) that you order in advance and is ready to eat before the start of Act Two. How innovative! Small side note - the English don't give standing ovations (unless something is truly groundshakingly good, I think). I much prefer this convention rather than being coerced to your feet by an over-excited public. The audience was incredibly appreciative of the performance (you could tell by the strength of the clap) but didn't feel the need to rise with enthusiasm.
Andrew lives on the outskirts of London in a suburb called Forest Hill. This meant taking a small train in to the main metro (think Go train from Oakville to Toronto). Friday morning I left Forest Hill and met Andrew at London Bridge Station. During his break from work we wandered through the Borough Street Market where he purchased fish, bread, breakfast specialties, and some really strong cheese! The cheese shop he took me to gave out loads of free samples - strong and rich (I have one friend who would be in cheese heaven). I got the full tour of the three spaces that compose the church where Andrew works. They are surrounded on Lombard Street by a number of insurance companies. We popped into an old English pub and had a hot sandwich and a pint for lunch alongside the business crowd.
With Andrew back at work, I made my way to the Tate Modern - a museum I had been looking to visit since September. Without a doubt it was the most impressive collection of art work I've ever seen. The Turbine Hall is the main space which feels like the inside of a factory (I think it once was) and it holds a rotating installation which changes every six months or so. Because of the enormity of the space, the pieces inside are epic in design. The current exhibit considers a London of the future and the artifacts that may be preserved after a natural disaster. I spent the next two hours on the second floor seeing work from the likes of Matisse, Monet, Pollock, Picasso, Bacon, Dali, and Kandinsky among many others. It's hard to describe the two hour wander but it was as if books featuring these works had come alive. I have to return later in the year to continue up the floors.
It just so happens that a friend from Queen's, Stuart Adrian, was celebrating his birthday on the Friday night. With Andrew at a staff Christmas party, I was free to hit the town and visit a true London flat party. It felt great to be among some Canadians again - there were four of there! Stuart is a business guy so a lot of his friends were from work. The champagne was flowing and great tunes were playing. I felt miles away from the quiet Heronbank flat and at the centre of a bustling metropolis! I unfortunately couldn't accompany the gang to the bar, since the troops began to mobilize around midnight and I needed to get back to Forest Hill, but I found a 24 night bus no problem and managed to make it back safe and sound.
The next morning I had a traditional English breakfast with Andrew and Martin. Now I've had a few breakfasts in pubs and restaurants since arriving but none as good as the one I was treated to before leaving. Among the staples of breakfast you'd expect was also baked mushrooms and tomatoes as well as sausage and haggis. What a treat! With that I said goodbye with plans to visit upon returning later in the summer. It was the first time I really felt "at home" in London after having visited at various points throughout the term.
I returned to Warwick where I have been travel planning ever since - lots of to do lists and train and plane confirmation numbers. We have 20 transportation connections alone for the next three weeks of travel! Tonight I had a lovely meal with Emily's Aunt Shelia and Uncle Doug in Birmingham. Like the breakfast, it was nice to sit down to a home cooked dinner. I have been so lucky that the Hincks clan, at home and abroad, have welcomed me into their homes. After having visited Birmingham a few times this semester, it was nice to see it with those who know the top spots.
Tomorrow Emily and I leave for Manchester en route to a week in Turkey!
Doc's Prescription of the Day: Big English Breakfasts! Why have we neglected a place for tomatoes, mushrooms, and, yes, even haggis at our breakfast tables? I say the more the merrier.