An Ailment from School Work.doc

Last night, a few of us from the program headed down to the 30th Annual University of Warwick Real Ale Festival (as opposed to those fake ale festivals). The three day event is the largest student run beer festival in the UK. Upon entering we were handed a program which listed the different varieties of ale; there were over 200 different kegs! There's one thing I've learned about British culture since my time here - they know how to pour a good pint. Not only that, but for as much as the French know the specifics of wine, the Brits have knowledge about beer brewing that I didn't know existed. I was aware of dry, fruity, dark, bitter, and cream tasting beers, but did you know there are ales with hints of chocolate, espresso, grapefruit, apricot, burnt toast, caramel, and vanilla?

A ten quid token card bought you ten different half pints - a mere dent in the 200 that were available. If you're decent with math, that works out to five pints for ten quid (try getting away with that in Canada!) Among the highlights of our sampling were the Oscar Wilde Mild and the Dark Side of the Moose. We also couldn't help but indulge in a pulled pork sandwhich from the pork roast that was going on alongside the ale sipping. Add to the mix the Warwick Brass Band playing a host of patriotic songs and it was just about the most British I've felt while over here. By the time I come back to Canada, I expect to be able to give advice on the differences between ales, lagers, stouts, and everything else hop and barley related. The downside is that instead of two quid, I'll be paying $6 plus tip for things back in Toronto.

Most of the weekend has been spent trying to get last minute details ready for the curation exhibit our group is putting up this Friday. One of the great things about this project is that I've actually learned a lot about the process that goes into curating an exhibit/installation in a museum. Since this is often an overlooked area of theatre research, it has been rewarding to learn some practical skills that I'll hopefully be able to use in a job after the MA year. Not only has the Tarragon Theatre been more than helpful (sending me a PDF of Scorched and access to all production photos) but Mr. Mouawad's agent air mailed two paperback copies of the plays free of charge. It is encouraging to know that Canadian artists and companies are keen to have their work talked about in academic circles around the world.

It seems as if I'm away from my country at one of the most interesting moments in the history of Canadian politics. I'm sure you've heard, but on December 8 a no-confidence motion will be put to a vote in the House of Commons. It's evident to me that recent Tory backtracks on the issues of the right to strike for civil servants and the elimination of political party subsidies signal that the party is scrambling to maintain control after a woeful fall update presented by Jim Flaherty. Still, it is not these issues that those wishing to form a coalition attack, but rather the lack of any stimulus or longterm plan to address the slowing economy. While the economy may be the official issue coalition forces are citing, it really is the elimination of public funding for political parties which has lead to the attack.

With Jean Chretien and Ed Broadbent negotiating behind the scenes, it seems as if the opposition parties are getting ready to strike. In light of the Conservative government's recent and crippling cuts to arts funding in Canada (in addition to a host of other possibly damaging legislation lurking on the horizion), I'm in favour of a coalition taking control. I realize the extreme significance of such a vote, in light of the recent election and the current economic crisis, but this is the chance to attack the weakness of a very arrogant Conservative government. If you read the pomposity of Jim Flaherty's defence of his update, specifically the elimination of public party subsidies designed to cripple every party but the Tories, you'll become aware of the immensity of the mistake the government has made with this November 28 speech. I am highly skeptical that the Governor-General would allow the Liberal-led coalition to govern, and instead call another election, but if she does, my hope is that between now and Monday they can settle on a competent leader rather than relying on Lame Duck Dion. I've been an Ignatieff fan since the last Liberal convention, which would need an unlikely stepping aside from both Dion and Rae, but Ralph Goodale who be a fine choice for the time being. It will be an interest week nonetheless.

I'll conclude this Sunday night installment with a thought provoking, but highly enjoyable, video I saw on the weekend:



This is the last post of November. Tomorrow we will officially move into Holidayland which for me will be travel month. I've managed 16 posts this month which works out to just about one every second day. I hope you're continuing to enjoy, but not to worry if you are way behind and don't read as often as I post (in which case you'll be reading this two weeks from now). I've come to realize the blog, as an archive of the time spent over here, is just as much for me as it is for all of you. I hope that doesn't sound too selfish, but it's true.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: Even if the parliamentary happenings are hard to follow (there are a multitude of possible scenarios), it's best to keep updated as to what's going down. Some interesting political drama will be unfolding in the next week.

Hej, Stockholm: Part Three.doc

The first year class I've spent the last two weeks with is presenting their final presentations today - it's exciting to see the nervous energy in their eyes and the relief that comes with a job well done. They are provided 40 minutes set-up and strike for the 10 minute presentation so I figured I'd write this post during those setup times. Eight groups presenting from noon - 8:00pm (a long day indeed). Much like the year of teaching at Queen's, I feel a kind of big brother support for the kids after having helped them with their ideas and checked in with them along the way. I've seen two of the presentations so far and it's thrilling to see where they've integrated my ideas and where they've progressed leaps and bounds beyond what they originally had to show. It's difficult to put into words, but in the little instructing experience I've had, there is a certain warmth and pride that comes with seeing your students succeed. It should be a really memorable day.

On to the Stockholm wrap-up!

You may ask why I've spread the experience over three posts. It relates to a quotation I read before setting off a few months ago: "A traveler without observation is a bird without wings." — Moslih Eddin Saadi. I think there is truth in this (especially with such a public online platform). It's easy to log an event by event summary of my adventures (see Part 1) but it takes a bit more reflection to offer some thoughts about the culture to which I was introduced. Without further ado...

You're going where?: Sweden was a bit of a random choice, but the visit taught me something I hadn't really thought of before. It seems as if there is a mythology about Europe being "the place" you have to visit before starting your professional career. Not only is the idea that you have to visit before chaining yourself to a desk completely absurd, but so is the misconception that it "can be seen" in a six week tour (let alone a year for that matter). Those of us North Americans privileged with the financial means would tend to plot out a trip to hit the "important spots" which usually means seeing the major city (or cities if you're lucky) in the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Germany, the Netherlands, and one or two others that may strike your fancy. The visit to Sweden happened on a whim; Paul found cheap flights and asked if I'd like to come along. I don't know if I would have visited otherwise, since it wasn't on the original list that I had conceived of. The list has now been thrown out the window. I'm saying yes to everything I can afford. And it just so happens that the next country I'll be visiting will be Turkey. I'll be in Finland for a week in June and cannot wait to experience more of the Nordic culture. It took arriving in Sweden, a place I had never pictured myself in before, to realize just what kind of place I've landed in (meaning Europe). The continent stretches far and beyond the central privileged countries thought of as "the must see spots."

Friendly People: Of course it's a generalization, but the Swedish people are the nicest Europeans I've come in contact with. While the stereotype of the French is unjust and the British stiff upper lip isn't always the case, both cultures have presented a more reserved welcome to their respective countries. It's not that I've come in contact with people who were rude, but rather they are not as likely to go the extra mile and ensure a welcome as Canadians tend to do. At the majority of the places Paul and I visited we met smiling and generous guides who were more than happy to answer our questions and point us in the right direction. We made many comparisons to the way in which the landscape was similar to home, which was completely forgotten when we arrived at the urban centre, but it really was the warmth of the people we met that reminded me of Canada. It might have something to do with the similarity in climate or maybe a shared experience of being overshadowed by countries in close proximity which breeds an appreciation for travelers who visit, but I felt more at home in Sweden than I have at Warwick. Hej Sweden, you rock.

Language Barrier: It wasn't difficult to get around in Sweden using English. I scribbled a list of words in my journal and was able to try and use them when appropriate. The people sometimes seemed amused, but were always appreciative that I at least made an effort. I won't go over all of the new Swedish words I learned, and will hopefully utilize again in future trips, but the one that we found most enjoyable was their greeting. Hej = Hi and is pronounced as "hey". It seems straightforward enough, but it was really interesting that a greeting we interpret as laid-back and informal was being used in a variety of different circumstances. Instead of meeting strangers with a formal hello or hi, the hej alternative seemed much more personal (maybe secretly, this is why I thought the people were so friendly). I think Swedish culture was a good test run for my time in Amsterdam where I hope to learn as much of the language as possible, but will be interacting in English for the most part.

The Trendy Factor: The home of H&M and Ikea didn't disappoint. The Sweds are a svelte, well dressed, and beautiful group of people. I wondered if it's something in the drinking water, but Paul (the scientist expert) said that actually it has a lot to do with the genes. I was hoping there was an exhibit at the Nobel Museum about it but I was sorely disappointed. Since I'm not of a science mind I won't try and explain why this might be so, but I have recognized the way in which Europeans weigh less, go to work less, wear clothes better, and relax better than us North Americans. The Christmas Market we were at was PACKED on a Sunday night with loads of families enjoying the winter weather, and later on that night we saw hordes of tobogganers fly at breakneck speed down a huge hill. It may be that the initial snowfalls are greeted with joy in Sweden like they are in Canada (and then cursed for the remainder of winter), but there was a carefree community attitude at the market that was really refreshing.

Stereotypes: It's been, and will continue to be, interesting for me to consider cultural stereotypes against the reality of what I encounter in each country. Sweden is an interesting case since I didn't know much about it before visiting, as opposed to countries like France and Italy for which I have a larger imagined picture. Deconstructing stereotypes:

i) There are a lot of blond haired, blue eyed people walking around, but by no means is it an overwhelming majority. There was less diversity than say in Toronto or London, but a wide variety of different looking people.

ii) H&M is extremely popular over there. Like I said, we spotted about seven different shops within a forty minute walk of one another. Then again, in England it seems as if there is a Marks and Spencer around every corner. A quantity of quality? I tend to think so.

iii) Mats Sundin is a national icon featured on billboards for a brand called Brother. The sports jacket he was wearing was listed at 499 Krona. He's got to make a salary somehow.

iv) We only saw one Ikea in our travels (gasp!) but I figure these are out in surrounding Stockholm, like they are in Canada, rather than in the downtown core. All the bedding at the hostel was from the popular store - such a good sleep.

v) The clubs played a little bit of Abba, possibly to satisfy foreign travelers, but it definitely wasn't a feature of the music scene. Drinks and cover were through the roof expensive (hence the hostel pregame) but the atmosphere couldn't be beat.

As you can tell, I hold fond memories of the weekend in Stockholm. Amidst the subzero temperatures and winds from the surrounding water, the city radiates a welcoming spirit sure to warm any new traveler to her Nordic landscape.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: If you're coming over here to visit or just planning a trip in the near future, consider spots off the beaten path. The "big ones" are of course important, but so too are the ones that surround.

Stockholm In All Its Beauty: Part Two.doc

As promised, part two of three detailing my Stockholm adventures. These pictures give you some idea of the type of spots we were able to visit in the 48 hours spent in the city. As you can see, snow blanketed the landscape, water surrounds just about everything, and yes, they are fond of their 7/11 just as much as we are.

View from the National Theatre

Sweden: The Home of H&M

Gamla Stan (Old Town)

Christmas Market (it was snowing)

Another shot of the Christmas Market

The Vassa Museum (a 17th century boat)

Winter Wonderland

Marching Towards the Royal Palace

Typical Building in the Background Shot

Still Water

Hostel Shot

Patricia (the boat bar)

Graffiti (I just really like this one)

Gröna Lund (Festive to the Max)

That's right...

I hope this gives you some idea how picturesque the setting is in Stockholm. I took 300 photos - sixty of which are on facebook and fifteen of which are on here. As you can tell, this just scratches the surface.

Doc's Prescription of the Day: If you take 300 photos, you're bound to settle on 80 that are good, 40 that are great, 10 that are stunning, and 1 that has that indelible something which makes it the favourite.

StockHOLM for a Rest: Part One.doc

I got back from Stockholm yesterday after an epic day of travel but had to attend to an essay outline and group meeting before getting down to the real business - letting everyone back home know about my weekend. It's unfathomable to tackle all that I saw in one post so this is how it's going to go down:

Part One: What I saw, where I went, and how I got there (summative but engaging)
Part Two: A photo entry (I know not everyone can see the photos on facebook so I'll post some of the best here)
Part Three: Observations and thoughts about my interaction with Sweden

Don't get overwhelmed. It won't all come at once and I encourage engaging with it your own pace.

Getting to Stockholm was a long journey. I travelled overnight from The Spa and was to meet up with Paul, who was taking a bus from Oxford, at Stansted Airport. Unfortunately it meant that I was working on little sleep, as the paranoia of missing my stop on the train caused me to stay awake, but I was running on excitement as we touched down at Skavsta Airport. On the one hour shuttle from the airport to the city centre, we marveled at how much Sweden reminded us of Canada - the route travelled on quite a rural path, there was a lot of green foliage, and a good 5cm of snow on the ground. That's right, I figured it was going to be cold in Sweden (it is Scandinavia) but I didn't expect a blanket of snow and more to come for the weekend. It was easily -10 C with the wind chill.

Upon arriving at the city centre our initial comparisons with the Canadian landscape were put to rest. Stockholm is an archipelago (a large group of islands) linked by bridges and, of course, a fantastically easy to navigate metro system. We jumped on the metro and got off at Gamla Stan, Stockholm's old town, which is arguably the most beautiful part of the city. Here we walked to our hostel, called Best Hostel Old Town, which looked out on the water. It was cool digs. We stayed at the top of the building on the fifth floor. The hostel had a newly renovated 'rec room' kind of feel and featured, what else, an Ikea comforter and sheet set. Also staying in the room were two Americans the one night and two Germans the other - we made friends with the Americans but the Germans kept to themselves.

Having arrived mid-afternoon on Saturday, we decided to drop our stuff and head for the sights. Our first stop was the Nobel Museum. Since Paul is a scientist, he was quite excited to check out the exhibits. Not only does the museum feature profiles on the current Nobel Laureates, but they have pockets of experiments, artifacts, and displays on some of the most groundbreaking work of the 20th Century. It was really interesting to see Watson and Crick featured alongside figures like Martin Luther King Jr. and Harold Pinter. We often think the Nobel Prize is strictly science related, but the exhibit highlighted both the literature and peace winners as well. There was also a really neat theatre and film exhibit of director Ingmar Bergman, who past away last year, that just happened to be on while we were visiting.

Outside the Nobel Museum was a charming Christmas market at the centre of Old Town featuring all kinds of wonderful food, ornaments, gifts, and household items. We bought some freshly roasted sugar coated peanuts as we walked. The surround of the old world buildings, some from the 16th Century, made the atmosphere come even more alive. Because it was after 5pm by the time we explored the Christmas market, all the other museums in the city were closed so we decided to hoof it around and visit some of the surrounding islands. Not only did we spot FIVE different H&M stores on our walk, but the Sweds go crazy for (get ready for it) 7/11! We passed by at least six different spots on the trip - it seems to be their preferred convenience store. I wonder if locals use the "sevs" for banking purposes like a friend of mine was known to do at the one in Kingston on Alfred St.

We returned to the hostel and got ready to hit the town. Stockholm could most definitely be considered a cosmopolitan city due to its inclusiveness and just the general urban makeup that embraces diversity. The club we went to was called Lino; it too overlooked the water. Paul and I prepared for the night the old fashion way - a pregame in the hostel with duty-free rum and coke from the 'sevs'. Doesn't get much more old school than that. We had be warned that drinks in Stockholm are expensive so we wanted to spend as little as possible. The club did not disappoint. After paying 100 Swedish Krona for cover (about 8 quid) we ventured through the three different rooms of music and the outdoor heated patio. Not only did they fill the Abba quota but they went back and forth between Swedish pop and recognizable American songs. Whenever we talked to a group of strangers they were always excited to hear we were from Canada. We met locals and other travelers as well a Swedish shoe designer who was opening stores all over Europe - talk about a cosmopolitan crowd. We returned to the hostel at 3:30am after being welcomed wholeheartedly to the city.

The next day was a bit of a whirlwind as we managed to hit as many important spots as possible: the Swedish National Theatre, the Royal Palace, the Vassa Museum, the Gröna Lund (think Sweden's Canada's Wonderland set up as a Christmas market), and of course the bar boat Patricia. The National Theatre was quite a sight to behold when you consider the type of government funded theatre in Canada. I'll include thoughts in Sweden Post #3, but the theatre was presenting a very ambitious season of classical work and the building itself was bold and opulent. One could really get the feeling that this has been the official site of the National arts for a long time.

The Royal Palace was equally as impressive. To give you some comparison, the rooms we toured were the official residence of the King of Sweden so it would be akin to a tour of the Queen's Buckingham digs in the UK. The Palace has a gorgeous dining room modeled after the Hall of Versailles and paneled with mirrors. As with many spots in Europe, I was struck by the curiosity of what might have taken place in the room I was currently standing in over the hundreds of years it had been used to host. We had planned the day so that we could catch the Changing of the Guard which takes place outside the palace. I was glad we did. Aside from the pomp and circumstance which accompanied the performance, there was a certain reverence paid to the event by those participating which signaled that it wasn't merely for show. I like palaces.

The Vassa Museum was on a separate island so we hopped on the metro. The museum houses a fully intact early 17th Century war vessel that sank in the Swedish harbour 25 minutes after setting sail for its maiden voyage (at least the Titanic made it out of the harbour). It was brought to the surface over six years in the 1960s and now stands on display. The most interesting feature of the exhibit, besides the power that a ship of that size commands, is that the museum was built on what was previously a ship yard. The structure was erected without a back wall which allowed the ship to be sailed into place. The water was then drained and the museum was sealed with a fourth wall. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Sweden.

We happened upon Gröna Lund by accident, but it was one of the highlights of the trip. The park just happened to have free admission on the Sunday we wandered in and it had just recently been decked out (like decked out to the fullest) in anticipation of Christmas. It's definitely one of those places that's hard to blog about but I would describe it as Canada's Wonderland meets the Ex meets Santa's workshop meets the Island of Misfit Toys. We had a blast just walking through the grounds sipping on mulled wine and eating Swedish treats. I feel that sometimes for all the museum stops you make (which are important in their own right) you really can experience a culture in the smallest and unlikely of places. This was the case with the small eatery we ventured into in the park where there was practically no English being spoken around us. The waitress pointed out the dish she considered to be most reflexive of Sweden Christmas and we were happy to take her advice. It was venison in a mushroom sauce with mashed potatoes and currents. Not only was the meal delicious, but the environment of the restaurant, which reminded me of a Chalet at the top of a mountain, in addition to the festive spirit outside created such a feeling of joy that's hard to articulate.

After 6pm hit and the museums and shops were closed, Paul and I spent the next two hours on an island we hadn't yet visited. This was a more trendy area of town which had many shops and eateries. We spotted a park where about a dozen young kids were tobogganing. We climbed the hill and jumped on some swings that overlooked some of the cityscape. I've come to realize that these unofficial zones, outside the tourist spots and the main strips, are some of the places where you feel most connected to the city you're exploring. We jetted back to the hostel and proceeded to recreate the events of the night previous and gear up for Patricia, the boat bar, which we realized we could see from the window of our hostel! To be completely honest, Patricia wasn't as fun as Lino (probably because it was a Sunday night) but the novelty of being on a boat never really wore off. The feel was really similar to Buddies...but moored in the harbour on a Sunday night. We obviously took lots of photos with the boat paraphernalia scattered throughout.

Monday morning we had a bit of an Amazing Race adventure as we slept in an hour late and missed the first shuttle to the airport. After catching a later one and arriving thirty minutes before the plane was suppose to take off (talk about cutting it short) we were greeted with a forty minute delay due to icy weather conditions - talk about perfect timing.

Thanks for following this far; I know it's a long post. Tomorrow I'll attach about a dozen photos so you can visualize some of what I've described and I'll follow that up with more solid observations of the Swedish culture which is lacking in this travel log.

Doc's Prescription for the Day: Think of the "official" and "unofficial" spots of culture in the city in which you currently reside. If you had a special visitor, just what would you show them that they may not find in any guidebook.

Work Hard, Play Hard.doc

Do you ever have such a productive day that it seems as if you've added four hours to the stingy twenty-four we're alloted? Today has been like that for me; I feel like I've run a marathon. This late night blog post is just another stop along the way. 

Work Hard: Today I worked in studio for eight hours with 50 first year students who are developing final presentations which they perform next week. So, guess who's the new hip and laid-back MA student who knows all the first years? I kid. It was an cool to have been chosen to help out (since the program Director thought I'd be a decent instructor) and it turned out to be a pretty inspiring day. One can get serious, cynical, and wrapped up in research very quickly as a postgrad, but there is something more naive in the approach of the majority of first year students. They seem to possess the energy and enthusiasm that comes with the knowledge that they've begun a new journey. It reminds me of William Blake's Songs of Innocence and Songs of Experience, beautiful works in my opinion, which explore the duality of the "two contrary states of the human soul." I was a little terrified this morning that I wouldn't be able to fill an hour workshopping with each group. My fears were quickly extinguished when again and again it became a race against the clock to try to work out all the new ideas I was able to offer in each time slot. I realized that even though it was difficult to sit down and plan out the types of advice I could offer, the five years of schooling was all accessible once in the moment - I was pulling out 'as-ifs', 'objectives', 'status' and 'tension' levels, 'atmospheres', LePage type prop play, and of course a keen attention to aesthetics. At a time when it's inevitable to start thinking about career options, today reinvigorated a self-confidence in what I have to offer. Today I realized how incredibly scary being 'the instructor' can be, but the potential for those moments of joy become all the more possible. 

Play Hard: Two Brits, an Australian, an Indian, a Singaporean, and a Canadian walk into a bar...on Brazilian night. The beginning to a popular joke? No! My Tuesday night. The international possibilities are endless here. Some of my program mates and I went to a Brazilian night at the union - live music and dance, special cocktails....and some posters on the wall of Brazil. So the decor was lacking, yes (I know a special blog commenter who would have Braziled the heck out of Brazil Night). After the live music and dance, which was pretty much the highlight of the event, the music kind of devolved into a DJing playing Spanish music with some Gasolina and Bob Sinclair thrown in for good measure. It's the closest I'll come to Brazil in at least the next five years.

Work Hard: I've been spending a lot of time at the library - definitely more time than I ever did at uni in Canada. I can't really do much work at Heronbank. I think the residence room just doesn't feel like an official study zone to me. The library culture at Warwick is also really attractive. Aside from the crazy security, the libraries are pretty mod and feature a lot of new-age learning strategy zones that I find amusing - white boards for break out collaboration, computers hooked up to video screens all over the place, reallllly comfortable sitting areas, and a lot of technology designed for different learning styles. It's a very stimulating environment. Hincks and I skyped while I was at the library. We didn't talk, but rather watched each other on video and chatted. It was a pretty funny setup. The library rules. I'm going to say goodbye before Christmas.

Play Hard: What do you get when you combine rollerblading and alcohol? The beginning to a popular joke? No! My Wednesday night. Lotte, Bec, and I went to the union for the second night in a row for a theme night which just begged spectatorship: Roller Disco. That's right. Somene thought of, and approved, an idea to have a roller rink at a campus bar. Picture if you can the alcohol infused collisions that could possibly take place at such a venue and multiply it by two. For one, it may have been the combination of alcohol and skates, but the Brits were pretty sad bladers. Granted, we come from a nation where you usually have worn a pair of skates by the time you're five, but I was still unimpressed (I was taught to skate by Mr. Owen Nolan and can say in confidence I was the fastest on my team a handful of times, a thank you). Unfortunately the lineup for blades was much too long and we were happy to avoid the throng and observe on the sidelines. Instead, we've made it a priority to go ice skating in Coventry in the next two weeks.

Work Hard: To give you an idea of the final project that I've mentioned, I'm part of a group exploring theatre curation. We've settled on the concept of creating an exhibition featuring notions of National Identity in each of our home countries and what that can tell us about concepts of nationalism across cultures. I'm focusing in on Wajdi Mouawad's Scorched and Tideline as adding a new concept to the current patchwork of Canadian Identity presented in the theatre. I'm proposing his vision focuses on origins, venturing outside our borders to gain a perspective of what's inside, and considering Canada's identity in an increasingly globalized world. The exhibit will feature production material showcasing the plays, with two scripts the author's agent is sending to the UK, juxtaposed with the performance of National Identity in previous Canadian productions and popular culture. An ambitious project to say the least.

Play Hard: I leave for Sweden early Saturday morning! I'm actually departing The Spa late tomorrow night and making my way through London to Stansted. Paul and I are excited to explore all that Stockholm has to offer. Sunday night we're partying on a boat named Patricia located in the harbour - we'll say hi to her for you. Some friends in TO are taking a roadtrip to Kingston. Weekend getaways all around!

Doc's Prescription for the Day: I want to avoid something stereotypically Swedish (like meatballs, the Chef, ABBA) so why don't I prescribe one of their most successful exports: IKEA! If you take some time to head to Ikea, it'll be like you're in Stockholm with me. Exactly like it. They even have a smorgasbord...and a ball pit.