Czech, Czech, Czech - Czech It Out.doc

From the alive and electric city of Berlin, I made my way to the beautiful and serene city of Prague. Well, it would prove to be serene. You don't think of the city as beautiful if you arrive at the Prague Bus Station (Florenc) at 6am. It was a little scary but I hung out there until the city started moving around 8am. It just so happened that one of my program friends, Milan from Slovakia, was spending reading week in Prague (where he lived for two years previous). Since all of his friends in the city were off working during the days, he was more than happy to show me around. It proved to make the trip different from others I've had exploring a new city - suddenly I had privileged access to spots off the beaten path.

That Monday morning we went to Prague Castle which looks down at the city from the surrounding hills. It's an imposing structure sitting atop the landscape that looks beautiful in the evening. We walked through the old buildings, along Golden Lane, and then took the stairs down to the old part of the city. From there we walked across the massive Charles bridge which is a pedestrian walkway filled with tourists, little vendors, and caricature artists. From the bridge you can look out on old town which is a collection of yellow and orange buildings with beautiful green domes and churches scattered throughout. That afternoon we broke up walking through the city with stops for a coffee in a cafe, a beer in a pub, and a tradition Czech meal (goulash). 

I checked into my hostel that afternoon and grabbed a nap to recover from the overnight bus ride. I was staying in a newly renovated hostel with 10 beds in the room. There were only two of us staying there the first two nights, and I had the lone bed up the stairs in what felt like my own little loft - I was able to spread out and have my own space. That evening I met Milan for a few drinks in a bar in the centre where I met two of his friends - a guy from Germany and another from Calgary who had moved to Prague to teach English. It's always nice to meet fellow Canadians along the way.

The next day I picked up a Euro plug adapter (since I had stupidly left mine back home in Amsterdam) to charge my camera battery. I met Milan and his friend for a walk around the outskirts of the city. It was a raised portion that offered a really great view of the centre. There we visited an old church, a cemetery, and had some warm wine in a beautiful park. The three of us then went back to the flat Milan was staying at and made a delicious dinner in a big pot. Oftentimes Milan and his friends would slip into conversations in Slovakian. It was odd to listen to, since I had no entry point into understanding even some of the words, but it was fun trying to decipher what was going on. I was appreciative that they made efforts to include me in conversations when it was a big group - English after all is their second language.

That evening we went to a concert featuring two Polish cellists who sang beautiful duets. I had missed being able to see a performance in Berlin, but I was happy to see something in Prague. There were seven of us who went to the performance and they took me to a traditional Czech bar for beers after the show (no tourists in sight). The Czech can drink. It seemed like it wasn't even a question whether or not the table would order a third round...it was just expected. We ended off the night at a fun Karaoke bar (it just happened the be a Tuesday of all nights) and I jumped on a tram back to my hostel.

Wednesday morning I spent a little time exploring the city by myself. I went past the National Theatre, some interesting Kafka spots, and places of note during the Velvet Revolution. Wherever you looked in Prague there are traces of the effects and influence of Communism. It was the first time I really felt confronted by it in Europe. It made me consider how isolated things feel in Canada - it is easy to forget that some of my fellow students grew up in completely different political climates. 

That evening, Milan and his friends made a traditional Slovakian meal that reminded me of macaroni and cheese. Instead of pasta it was made with small dumplings, really strong cheese, cream, and bacon. It was heavy, but really tasty. We went for a few after dinner drinks and then to a dance club that usually stays open until 6am. We only stayed until 2:30am. I bid farewell to my generous host. Milan really did lay out the red carpet for me (as I would do for anyone who came to visit in Canada) and I was really appreciative to get the real Prague experience. I may not have seen all the tourists spots listed in the guide book, but it felt like an authentic weekend.

The next morning I packed up at the hostel, went exploring a bit more in the city, and then hopped on the bus headed home to Amsterdam. The bus was a 12 hour ride, but I was surprised that I was able to sleep for a good seven hours. When it was announced that we had arrived in Amsterdam, it felt like I had returned home. I realized I hadn't left the country for two and a half months before leaving, but it felt great to get back to familiar sights. What made the arrival home all the better was that Emily and Raffi were waiting for me back at the apartment. The subject, of course, of the next blog.

Doc's Prescription of the Day:

“The Berlin Wall crumbled, Politburos resigned and governments vanished overnight. Half a million Czechs and Slovaks gathered ... in Prague and we sensed that a long, absent angel had returned home to Central Europe.”
Madeleine Albright

"Prague never lets you go... this dear little mother has sharp claws."
Franz Kafka