One of my friends on facebook recently commented that I am “eating me way” through Europe. This isn’t so far from the truth. And what better place to indulge in hearty meals and decedent treats than in Italy.
Jessica and I surmounted the challenges of the Barcelona airport to arrive in Roma safe and sound. After a lengthy metro ride, from one end of line A to the other, we arrived at Battistini. In this area outside of the heart of the centre, dotted with moderate sized apartments and foliage covered terraces, we had an apartment booked for three nights. Admittedly, the initial walk to the apartment proved challenging – the sidewalks are not built for suitcases, we had to travel uphill, and the street signage left a lot to be desired. After the help of some generous locals, we were pointed in the direction of the building.
We arrived to find a jovial and smiling Giuseppe on the terrace of the first floor pad that overlooked the street below. The initial tour of the facilities was quite funny. He explained all the details in Italian (since he spoke hardly any English) and gave us instructions about keys, the trees and bushes on the terraces, and all the other little important things. Luckily, Jessica’s minimal knowledge of Italian from studying from Opera came in handy. The apartment was beautiful – hardwood floors, a spacious living room, kitchenette, wireless internet, a big bathroom, an air conditioned bedroom, and a terracotta terrace with an abundance of greenery and even a lemon tree.
After settling into the flat, we explored some of the area around the apartment. We didn’t get too far than the pizzeria down the street with a pretty full patio. We bet this was a good sign and we weren’t disappointed. A half litre of wine, a bottle of water, bruschetta bread, and two pizzas cost of 23 Euros. It was without a doubt the best pizza I’ve ever eaten. I had a funny realization as I dug into my loaded pizza heaving over the side of the plate. It was peppered with mushrooms, olives, and half a hard-boiled egg in the centre in addition to cheese and fresh tomato sauce – these were three types of foods I would have never eaten before my twenty-first birthday. It seems my palette of acquired tastes has improved over the past few years. That evening we retreated home early after a long travel day and relaxed with a beer on our cozy terrace.
The next morning we hit Roma. After a coffee pickup we went to the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and the Pantheon. It didn’t take me long to appreciate the heart of Rome’s appeal - opulent and ornate architecture. I don’t think I’ve ever been to a city with such beautiful buildings and sites around each corner. Not only that, but each piazza (and there are many) create moments to pause and admire. After snapping away and battling the hordes of other tourists in +30 temperatures, we decided to cross the coliseum off of our list. We paid for a package deal guided tour of both the coliseum and the palatines – the ancient Rome archeological sites. Our guide told us of the bloodbath and spectacles held in the massive arena, and dispelled some of the “Gladiatorisms” Hollywood continues to get wrong. The Palatines were less impressive until you used your imagination to fill in the missing gaps (only 2% of the original Roman forum is still standing).
After the history lessons, we sat down for a wonderful dinner – beers, caprisi salad, and two dishes of pasta. I had a fantastic gnocchi and Jessica enjoyed some traditional spaghetti. We accomplished a little window-shopping and had some delicious gelato before heading back to our pad. There we spent yet another night sipping beverages on the terrace.
The next day we went to another country – the smallest sovereign state in the world, the Vatican. Again we paid for an English guided tour. It may have been a more expensive way to see the Vatican, but it meant we skipped the lines and heard a lot of important and interesting commentary. Our guide was actually a Canadian named Stan. Although he seemed a bit worn around the edges giving tours four times a day (again in +30 heat), he was jovial and liked to joke around. His tour of the Vatican Museum was great. We saw the important busts and statues, as well as the tapestries and paintings that lined the rooms upstairs. The highlight of the Museum though is undoubtedly the Sistine Chapel. While the hall was packed with ignorant tourists snapping photos and making all kinds of noise after being told not to, the chapel was quite spectacular. While I was expecting it to be a mite larger, you cannot help but appreciate Michelangelo’s four years of struggle under the glow of candlelight.
From there we went into St. Peter’s Basilica – the most opulent Church I’ve ever set foot in. It was a sight. For those of you who have been there you’ll know what I’m talking about. You cannot help but feel reverence for such an important building to so many people throughout the world. We wandered around the grounds, and then the square designed by Bernini (which took me back to a presentation my friend Kelly did on the artist in high school), and then hopped into a pizzeria for some quick lunch.
After the early morning trek to Vatican and six hours of touring the sun had sucked our energy. We wandered around a few more piazzas, a market, and then returned home for an early evening in the burbs. We counted our Roma pursuits as par for the course in two days. That night we went out for one more dinner at our favourite pizzeria around the corner from the apartment. The dinner signaled the end of a fantastic week with Jessica who heads to Greece for a week to visit family. The next morning we sipped on a coffee near the apartment before splitting ways. I could not have asked for a more laid-back and generous travel companion: when we missed the bus to the airport there was no stress, when Giuseppe didn’t speak any English we made it work, and when there was a question of whether to get more gelatto the answer was always affirmative. It’s sad to depart from a friend like Jess but I’m excited for the rest of her journeys.
As I tend to do, I’m catching up on my way to Paris at 35,000 feet. Hincksy and the Doctor reunite for four nights of fun and I can’t wait.
Doc’s Prescription of the Day: A nice big slice of your favourite. I ate more pizza in three days than I did the whole time in Amsterdam. I think the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles have something to do with our generation’s affinity for the greasy Italian treat.
Saturday, August 01, 2009
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2 comments:
Bravo-Sounds like a awesome time! Get some rest at Emily's -Hardly ! Have Fun.
But you are eating your way through Europe . . . and I am exceedingly jealous. I loved your description of Roma in this blob. Even though my own ancestry is Scottish with a smidgeon of Irish, I've always felt a strange affinity to Italy and must get there someday. However, the closest I got to it this summer was a tour of the Papal art exhibit at the National Gallery (but there were studies of the Sistine Chapel art by Michelangelo, if that counts). I also ate my way through the Glengarry Highland Games this past weekend . . meat pies, mushy pies, gravy and more French fries in two days than I've had in the past year. Which leads me to my next excursion . . I'm heading out the door to go running and burn them off!! Thought for the day: "Eat, Keith, eat!" in a twist of Forrest Gump.
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